I absolutely love big bag growing. Check out my discord... https://discord.gg/wWM4rsCv

We are on the start of week 5 !!! almost half way through veg now ! They are going strong and coming long nicely . I've started with micro grow and bloom now PH perfect from advanced nutrients . We also got some side branching , going to be topping these ladies soon get that training on ! A big thank you to everyone who stops in ! Happy Growing! -V.G Day#29 Watered full cup each , these ladies are always thirsty ! Day#30 Responding well to watering growing great :) Day#31 Growing along , going to be setting up new 4x4 room Day#32 N/A Tuning up grow area way to hot in there Day#33 Watered half litre each today ( 2 cups ) at 620 ppm . Day#34 Responding well to water they so thirsty all the time haha growing well :) Day#35 Topped both plants , They're growing along nicely I find #2 to be cal mag def no matter what I do . Im going to try flushing the medium abit and reapplying the nutrients again maybe its a lock out . Watered 1/2 L each 620 PPM Recap: This week has gone well lots of new growth getting prepared to give them some training to that side branching going a little stronger .

Non male quest'autofiorente. Praticamente 400gr da 6 piante con una che ha reso 118grammi e quasi 5 di battitura a120micron.Le sei piante sono tutte leggermente diverse. Quella che mi piace di più aprendo il barattolo dopo 1mese di concia sa di formaggio stagionato.Al prossimo diario e grazie a chi ha seguito, commentato e messo like grazie 🙏 ❤️

Was away for 4 days didn’t get as much attention as usual still growing very well doing her own thing

Día 73 (01/04) Riego 0,5 Litro H20 sin nutrientes. TDS 225 PPMs - pH 6,6 Día 74 (02/04) Riego 1,25 Litro H20 + Wholly Base 3 ml/l + Solid Green 1,75 ml/l + Big Bloom 1,5 ml/l de Gen1:11 TDS 1050 PPMs - pH 6,2 Día 76 (04/04) Riego 0,5 Litro H20 sin nutrientes. TDS 225 PPMs - pH 6,6 Día 77 (05/04) Riego 1,25 Litro H20 + Wholly Base 3 ml/l + Solid Green 1,75 ml/l + Big Bloom 1,5 ml/l de Gen1:11 TDS 1050 PPMs - pH 6,2 Día 78 (06/04) Las plantas empiezan a mostrar reflejos morados en la punta de los cogollos 😍💜 Gorilla Cookies FF huele a gas, eucalipto y pimienta rosa Día 79 (07/04) Riego 0,5 Litro H20 sin nutrientes. TDS 225 PPMs - pH 6,6 💦Nutrients by Gen1:11 - www.genoneeleven.com 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-hp-biostimulant-plus-mycorrhizae

📆 Week 15, 30 April - 6 May 2024 30 April - Turned light power to 75%. 1 May - Did a significant defoliation. 2-6 May - Observed and let the plant grow. 📑 I was debating on keeping the lights at 100%, or defoliating the plant. Defoliating won this time. There just wasnt enough light penetration getting to the lower buds (half the plant) to mature them for maximum growth and quality yield. So leaving the lights that bright did not achieve my expectations. It is a tricky situation when you start taking leaves away from a plant in flower, but when shadows are blocking bud developement you have to balance your grow and open it up. My method is to start with the lowest leaves and work your way up, use common sense, discard yellowing and damaged ones first, leaving the healthy green leaf on the plant. Then strategically remove the few that shadow the buds you want more focus on. This will help ensure the plant continues processing energy while avoiding possible shock by removing too much leaf. 🍶 30 April changed nutrient solution 🍽️ 30 April updated feeding schedule 💧 Using reverse osmosis water with EC/TDS at 0 🐉 Nutrient Solution EC 2.2 at 72 degree F 🔆 Light power at 75%, DLI 45-50 canopy coverage at 12hrs 😤 Using General Hydroponics, HGC728040, Dual Diaphragm Air Pump, 320 GPH That is it for this week. Thanks for the look, read and stopping by.

Quick update added my pets for the comp Started with some bloom this week topped her too happy days growing fast

2.17.2024: End of week 3. Plant is heathy and doing well. Pistils are showing and def in the preflower stage. Would wager there will be noticeable bud development at the end of this week. Still no nutes given although i would have to imagine its getting to be that time. No defoliation yet, only slight LST to the bottom branches. 2.18.2024: Start of week four from seed. Holding course. 2.19.2024: Day 31 from seed. Plant is drinking more. Gave 64oz at 6.4ph. Run off ppm was 1450 at 6.6ph. Essentially 4 full weeks from seed before i need to start feeding. Next watering will contain nutrients. 2.20.2024: Plant is doing its thing. Firmly in the preflower/early flower stage. Growing 1/2 to 1 inch a day it seems like. Still can't bring myself to do any defoliation. 2.21.2024: Day 33 from seed, 29 from sprout. Picked up the pot this morning and it was very lite so i gave it another 64oz at 6.3ph. No run off this time which tells me they are starting to need more water or i need to up the frequency. Still no nutes in 33 days! The branches of the top 2 large fan leaves this morning were sagging a bit with a touch of purple on the stems. Chalking that up to water but will monitor as we progress. 2.22.2024: Besides white tips on top growth, steady as she goes. I'll post a pic of the white tips. No idea how to solve. Plant is totally in flower but since we're almost at the end of week 5 from seed, i'll keep the diary in "flower." 14.5 inches from soil to top. Would love to see these get to 24 inches by the end. 2.23.2024: Upped water to 96oz at 6.4ph. About 2 cups of run off at 6.4ph and 1500ppm. Original soil still has nutes to offer at day 35 from seed.

Aquí dejo imágenes de la segunda semana! He estado un poco liado y se me ha pasado! Mañana actualizaré también la 3ª semana que ya mañana arrancamos la 4ª y no van nada mal!! La bolsa de CO2 THE EXHALE está cumpliendo y en si todos los parámetros del cultivo hasta el momento se están cumpliendo, ya os iré contando!!

A little yellowing slow growth I think due to non transplant

Harvest amnesia auto. 150 grams wet. Jack Herer's swelling up daily. Best guess is a few weeks. The smell is incredibly potent. Tough to see in photos but buds are all 12" long and fattening up daily. Will keep you posted on smoke review on Amnesia. Cheers, Growdaddy

Noch keine Ideen. Es gibt aber einige Gedanken und Erfahrungswerte, die definitiv folgen werden. Einige Dinge haben mich sehr enttäuscht und in zwischen weiß ich auch warum.

Day 52-64 (Day 54) I’m going to thoroughly inspect each plant and remove bananas if found. So far it’s only been the one on #7 but I don’t want to take a chance. I’m also going to give a watering with some runoff. (Day 55) Can’t find anymore bananas but that one. I will probably find a few bag seeds but who knows. It’s way too late for pollen to really have effect anyway. These 5 plants finish nice and early compared to my other tent flipped on the same day. I would never take this strain 65+ days like last time. I would do 56-60 days next time I flower this strain (Day 58) Holy shit this tent is fading like crazy now. They are starting to show some beautiful autumn colors. #1 #5 and #7 are definitely done. #3 and #6 could use a little more time so I’ve decided to take them down on the 24th. I haven’t seen anymore bananas and the one that popped out on #7 has shriveled up and receded. (Day 63) I’m seeing what look like seed pods starting to form in some of the main colas on my picture perfect pheno. #7 is showing 3 or 4 little bananas too. All of the top buds are definitely done so I’m going to harvest as soon as the lights come on tomorrow. I’m going to give one last watering right now and then harvest. I’ve noticed that harvesting a watered plant will extend the dry time by a few days and that’s exactly what I’m looking for. A nice slow dry. Plants are being full plant hung + dry trimmed and tent is being kept at 60-65 degrees and 60-65% RH. Cutting everything down was a pain in the ass. I had to individually cut each square the scrog net so it wouldn’t contract and squish all the buds. I chopped down my other tent as well so I have no other plants in flower right now.

Day 79 - Another week passes, not much to post, normal feeding, 1000 ppm 6.2 PH, normal lights, the girls are fattening up nicely...... 😎 Day 84 - some pics/vids.... pics of a Test Bud (ready for curing)......doing some experimentation..... read up about drying and curing, but i don't have a set method, so test abit..... never grown bud before..... 👍 my tent is really small, i think 50x120x160 or something... and it's tight in there, i have no other source of herb, so i'm going to start getting into the smaller one, and focus the light on the larger one..... i've been trimming and drying all during the grow.... there's really only enough room for the big one, and it's really squishy in the tent........ 😎

Día 17/11 se hace el cambio del fotoperiodo a 12 horas de luz Este día también regué con EC de 2.0 y pH ajustado a 5.8 en esta oportunidad agrege un poco de Pro Silocate de grotek que tenis guardado. Se mantiene el uso de cloro a razón de 0.2 ml x 4 litros de agua. Baje la luz a 60 cm de la planta más alta del cultivo y se mantiene a 100% de potencia 23/11/24: Realicé defoliacion, mantengo el foco a 60 centímetros. EC se mantiene en 2.0 - pH 5.8

KRITIC AUTO by KANNABIA Week #14 Overall Week #11 Flower She's got one more week before harvest. She's a beautiful plant with her orange and shades of purple in her frosty buds and her danky smell! Stay Growing!! Kannabia.com KRITIC AUTO

The green sensation product is doing magic you can see that they love this 😍🙏

***day 8 (17/11) - mix nourish nutes 5ml (4-0-1) with 500ml of ph balance water. ***day 9 (18/11) ^^DAY^^ temp 28'c-29'c hd 50-55% ^^night^^ temp 25'c-28'c hd 55-65% -thats basically my daily temp and hd..did nothing today...soil is still damp from yesterday watering. second set of true leave starting to be more obvious. **day 10 (19/11) -mixing and water it 500ml of ph 6.5 water with 5ml noursh and 2.5ml growth. Bought a new fan..now Temp and HD are more stable..temp around 25-26'C, HD around 60-65% **day 11 (20/11) -raise the led to 60cm from plant because i think it looks overheat. and also might over water it..will stop watering til its dry. **day 12 (21/11). -3 leave are getting obvious.this morning check temp are perfect 27'C...humidity is 66%..kinda improve because one of the two fan is broken...but temp are still manageable. after increasing led height, leaf color improve a bit. today I increase it again to 70cm.. growth are still slow for me. **day 13 (22/11) -grew a bit..today my humidifier came..so i diy an icevream box for the humidifier reservoir. TEMP tonight 27'C, HUMI 65%. **day 14 (23/11) -last day of second week. 2ND set of tru leave are becoming more bigger and the 3rd set starting to see.

plants look mostly finished, except for the overfed center (A), but I decided to chop all of them, since I don't have the space to dry otherwise.

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.