Green Poison f1 fast version #1 growth

@gangaman, i will look at them when they get bigger and support where needed. But she didnt really makennew pistils simce i discovered the first. All bud sites have 2 calyxes with both 2 pistils and i dont find new pistils

@DoDrugs420, thanks for the scheme mate! And btw, I did start them in a small container. I used spongepots in a small 6 led propagator, and after that they hung out in a small pot of about 0,5 liter for a week. Since I'm quite late in the year(plantet at end of june), I chose to plant both of my girls(1 autoflower, (OG KUSH) 1 normal feminized (GREEN POISON FAST) ) both in a large 25 or 30 litre pot that fast. And even while the green poison is a fotoperiod, she is genetically manipulated to grow approx. As fast as an auto, so I in combination with the late planting i didn't consider the difference between the auto and the fast fotoperiod that relevant.

@DoDrugs420, yes i would appreciate that ! Poeppo36@gmail.com

@YellahJelle, small plants take about 200ml and its enough since they don't have enough roots to suck all the water, so the water acumulates in the unrooted soil and it won't dry as fast as the rooted area causing it to always stay wet and develop bad bacteria/fungus. It is possible that overwatering is what is slowing it down that much, you should had started that seed in a smaller container where it can establish a good root ball and allowing the soil to dry faster. Starting in a big container is best for autoflowers since transplanting them will results in a loss of growth wich will decrease yield. And then there is the temps, usually its advised certain values of humidity and they are advised considering the plant is in temperatures of 25° to 28°, but in fact humidity is related to temperature as it will dictate how the plant transpires, in veg you want low transpiration, and in flower higher transpiration, and that happens in a lot of different ways, for example, at 20C° you would want a RH value in between 55% and 70% for vegetative growth, now if you change the temperatures to 30°C the RH value should be kept from 70% to 77.5%. So i would keep that under check aswell since sometimes the sun can increase surface temperatures significantly compared to air temperatures. If its sunny and 28°, your plant may actually be experiencing 34°. Her color does seem a bit yellowish but overall looks healty, there is just something slowing it down and that might actually just be overwatering causing her some issues at uptaking nutrients, this assuming that your soil is nutrient rich, otherwise you soil may just be too "light" causing her to strugle to get the nutrients. If you want a chart for the RH/Temp relation drop your email and i will email it to you. Best of luck.

@heizen, thanks bud! But the harvest was about 2 months ago😉😋

@YellahJelle, hey there, hope i answered your question, anything else you need just let me know 👊