What caused the end of my plant in your opinion?

I don't get it.. 😣 I used half strength nutrients, so I don't overfeed. PH and EC were always good at root zone level, that was the first thing I checked every time and I was surprised every time that they were ok. 😲 I had iron deficiency at the beginning, but after sorting out PH and alkalinity everything went fine. Okay let's say I used too many things at once, even though I followed the official growth schedule at https://www.hesi.nl/application/files/7615/0946/3346/EN_Coco.pdf I know fewer stuff should be enough, but I got the starter box, so I'm not going to throw away the nutrients just because. So why on earth had we a ~1.5 week of successful flowering stretching, after switching to the flowering nutrients? Lot of new leaves after the first defoliation in flowering, then all of a sudden drooping, wilting, stunted growth, lot less water drinking, etc., she all of a sudden just disliked the feeding schedule which was fine until then? No word about the roots at all? 😔 I ask because root problems like rot and root bound can look like anything and everything else seemed fine until the second week of flowering. If I search for root bound the images look very similar and it would explain a lot. Currently I'm following the same feeding schedule with my new grow, so we will see if the same problems arise and if so, then I will try to minimize as many feeding variables as possible. 💀

Hey there Grass_Maestro, well from what i can tell your plant was fine then you cut it down, so you're the one responsible for the "end" you know ? anyway that's the main reason the plant is not potent : you harvested too early. But you're right that there were some nutrient issues. That's because you're feeding a lot of stuff. You should always check the ingredients and composition of the nutrients you are feeding. I only use supervit from HESI, it seems the rest is kind of scam based on what i can read here : Root Complex, PK, Boost, and Coco are all NPK even though they have fancy names. So that's where the burn comes from ! actually you can just use one of those products and you would have much healthier plants. Next time think in this way : you want to have one NPK, one chelation agent (for you that's the PowerZyme which is a good product!) and one micro nutrient like cal mag. Dont overthink it , anything more complicated than this is un-necessary. But basically your plant was hurting but still alive, it take a while for trichomes to mature and you cut it down too soon, simple as that. What you want to do next time is make sure you have a good magnifier to check your trichomes, as you can see it's well worth it harvesting when it's ready. harvest when there are no clear trichomes, all milky and few ambers for max potency. Hope this helps ! 🚀

Since I cannot edit the question, or reply, here is some more context: I used half the indicated nutrient strength and checked EC together with PH, that is, the runoff PH was slightly higher, not lower, EC reading was very similar to input, so I didn't even think of overfeeding. I had nutrient burns with the same nutrients in my previous grow, as I used full nutrient strength. The leaves were dark green and every leaf had burned tips, even then, I had no such heavy burning overall. I didn't know about alkalinity then, so I had hard time managing correct PH. Overfeeding then was obvious as EC was higher and PH lower at runoff water.

over nuted, maybe? leaves had a claw and twist long before they burned. Simplify your feeding routine. Add other products one at a time and see what it does in your context/ your garden. Check out a nutrient ppm calculator and determine what you provide etc etc... looks like plenty of drainage when using hydroton / clay balls. So, overwatering is virtually impossible unless it is related to frequency. Stick to wet-dry cycle with 20% runoff to drain/waste and you'll never overfeed if providing a balanced diet. It won't build up. It won't grow pests from a constantly wet top portion of substrate.