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Wedding Cake to Toxic to Save??

Diesel_Loud
Diesel_Loudstarted grow question 3 years ago
Wedding Cake Auto isnt looking the best. had nitrogen toxicity, flushed, has wonderful new growth then flipped back to an over watered curl. flushed with 5.8 water and not sure if i should continue this grow. pic 6 days ago. currently top curled like toxicity
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Plant. Stem - Red or purple
Feeding. Deficiences
Techniques. LST
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NobodysBuds
NobodysBudsanswered grow question 3 years ago
I'm going to wager this is related to watering practices. So, if what i suggest deviate at all.. i'd get this in order first before making drastic changes to anything else. When you water, ensure entire pot soaks up ater. This requires some runoff as a dry substrate can repel water at times. So, just make sure you get about 10% waste water running out bottom. toss it out. don't let it stew in a puddle. (down drain or toss outside in garden is fine, but not a potted plant) Wait until top 1" dries. Feel weight of pot. from now on use weight of pot to determine 'next' irrigation. It may take more than 1 or 2 cycles to become familiar, but try your best. Repet above proces.. ensure 10% runoff. If in soil you will probably fertilize every other or every third depending on dose you give. Soils vary significantly as far as how much is in them to start, so you have to learn when to start fertilizing and how to ramp up that dose over time. Familiarity is key here. Find a consistent product you like and stick with it. Contents of soil vary so much that you any suggestion you receive should be taken lightly. Get a leaf symptom chart... pH around 6.5. in soilless you fertilize every single time you water. pH 6-6.5 is great and avoid locking out things. You really should shoot higher than 5.8, even though 5.8 is fine. It gives more room for error on each side of target. As with soil, slightly acidic is really all that matters. Keep it consistent so you can expect predictable results when adjusting nute concentrations / ratios. It's important to know what you feed. google a fertilizer ppm calculator. Use your guaranteed analysis labels and determine PPMs of each element provided. For a basic reference, you can see a roughly 1.3EC mixx tht i use. NPK, secondary and trace elements listed. If in soilless, your 'hydro' nutes should have everything, including the trace stuff. Anyway, my hard water will make Ca / Mg / S value a bit different than others, but the NPK are great ballpark values to shoot for. Armed with this info, whether soil or soilles, you can more easily deduce leaf symptoms. based on how your soil dried, it looks like you didn't adhere to good watering practices. this will cause weird things in substrate related to uneven evaporation and dry pockets that could potentially cause all sorts of problems with your plant and general availability of nutes. So, water entire thing, get runoff, wait for top 1" to dry (a knuckle). *Smaller pots you may not want to wait for an entire 1" to be bone dry. Feel the weight. Avoid any wilt... that is waiting too long, obviously.
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NobodysBuds
NobodysBudsanswered grow question 3 years ago
forgot to mention -- if autoflower... more of a reason to restart. If new, it's still worthwhile to learn from it and stick it through. Plants will show you all the things you do wrong during the flower phase and as time piles up... or mistakes compound if doing it poorly and it will show. if photoperiod you are definitely better just letting it recover at this point. it would take weeks for a seedling to catch up and you should be able to fix things before that point. you can take the time neccessary to fix it with photoperiods... unless the math just doesn't make sense. Even so, good to learn from mistakes. See it through unless there are extenuating circumstances.
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