Auto flowering, PH is 5.8 to 6.1 every day. Hydro set up. Botanicare grow, calmag, and hydroguard all given half the regular amount.

How well a plant does in bloom is a testament to the balance of your nutrient mix... if it falls apart, there's something off and it shows up much more easily than in vegetative phase. If lower leaves are impacted, that's much more liekly a 'mobile' nutrient, given proper pH and not bombing the plant with too much of various nutes that can lock out other nutes -- the latter would typically be multiple symptoms anywhere and everywhere on the plant of all types... so it's much harder to diagnose a toxicity. This looks like a N-deficiency. It pays to know your ppm's of each nutrient molecule. Otherwise, this learning curve can last a lot longer for no reason other than a lack of effort on this part. there are ppm nutrient calculators you can find with a google search. "manic botanix" web site has one. If you don't know what you were giving before, you can't just assume things when a problem arises and start throwing shit into the substrate or reservoir. (or taking away for that matter) there is not enough info to be certain.. but there is some clawing and you got yellowing creeping in from bottom. if the yellowing also starts at tip and progresses inward (vs. interveinal chlorosis), this is likely related to needing a little more nitrogen.... assuming you aren't feeding too much of some other molecule that could lock N out. did you recently switch from vege to bloom nutes? often times marijuana branded fertilizers skimp on N due to some groupthink that you need significantly less of it in bloom phase, which is mostly likely false and why a lot of canopies look like shit 7-8+ weeks into bloom phase (same with "pk boosting" without knowinng how much you were giving before nor how much it is boosted to, lol, but why would that be important for consistency in results? BWAHAHAH, nah lets take given genetic volatility and amp it up for non fucking reason with laziness, lol. that way it is even harder to draw conclusions from what we have done.. and nearly impossible to improve in an expedious way) So, i'd consider a NPK around 120s-130s / 50s / 200ish ppm... secondary stuff can be more impacted by tap water, so these may vary more ca/mg/s 100-130/80-90s/100+ ... and all of that added up should be roughly 650-750ppm as a starting point, then smal adjustments from there based on plant's behaviour. e.g. if it is yellowing at bottom and tip-in progression, regardless of what groupthink says, that plant needs N even if it is in bloom phase. (you need to eliminate other possibilities for your context with greater knowledge of what you fed before) you may need adjustments into bloom, but let the plant tell you if it is deficient or starting to build up too much of something before assuming things due to the groupthink that exists out there.. "they" were wildly wrong about flushing.. don't trust common thought without verification... remember... 50% of the population is at or below 100IQ (median). half the world is basically forest gump... do the math on what you feed and these sorts of issues are resolved with 99% certainty before they have a chance to progress. it takes the mysticism out of it.