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Grow QuestionsRunoff PPM

Runoff PPM

NordicCropzstarted grow question 2 years ago

Can't really find a solid simple answer to this question anywhere.. Should my runoff PPM be half of inflow, the same, or something in between? I imagine there's a different answer whether doing feed/feed or feed/water, I'd really appreciate it if someone could map this out a bit

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Week 4

Feeding. Other

NobodysBudsanswered grow question 2 years ago

You are in coco, you should feed, feed, feed, feed, feed, feed, feed,... no water-only breaks.. no need to do that. you are soilless, so you provide 100% of what the plant needs and hopefully in an optimal concentration for ondemand use.. meaning you match the metabolism of your plant, which is dictated by genetics and your environment. Dial in a 650-750 ppm concentration. religiously get 10-15% runoff waste.... if you do this, you will NEVER have problems with PPM fluctuation in your substrate. Now, you may need to dial in your mix as you go... observe and adjust as needed... at these levels any problem will be slow-moving and minor.. which will allow you great patience when dealing with them... the problems will be clear, because pH and other concentration levels are not out-of-whack.. so symptoms, if any, will be clcearcut with little guessing involved. in a short period of time with any decent nutrient brands, you'll have something that will work with viturally any plant, if done right. check out any of my diaries. i ahve a screenshot of my PPM per molecule of a 650+ ppm mix. it'd be a great starting point. FYI i actually use a little higher with mature plants than what is listed. i am lazy to change the picture. at full bore, i'm up around 700-720PPM. the ratio of nutes stays roughly the same. if you use dry nutes, i have a spreadsheet linked in my profil comment section, i think... if not check out manic botanix nutrient ppm calculator. google. Fertilizing is the easiest damn thing to do... so many try to force feed it like it's some sort of "foie gras" Bwawhahha. This is how you grow in soilless substrates. it is not soil. we control everything, so embrace it. feed every single irrigation (assumming smooth sailing). the next step would be to work out a multiple irrigation per day system. otherwise, keep it simple till you figure things out... allow some sort of dry-wet cycle to ensue...fertilize when pot is same weight for consistency etc.... with coco, the moment the top layer starts to change colors is generally safe to irrigate again wihtout promoting microbial or pests issues.

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NobodysBudsanswered grow question 2 years ago

* gotta point this out.. flushing will only slow growth down... if a method involves cyclical flushing, it's a bad method for soilless grows. this is a sign of feeding more than what the plant can handle per day or per week etc... genetics dictates "donks" ... shit i removed that diary, but i had lamb chop buds that were 1 oz each dried... never fed more than 700ppm. you cannot force feed a plant.. it doesn't work that way... give it what it needs on demand... it will do the work. we don't do shit but stay out of the way and not step on ou own dicks or flaps.

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crimsonechoanswered grow question 2 years ago

this site usually has reliable info so i suggest you take a look https://www.cocoforcannabis.com/managerunoffec/ your plant looks very healthy by the way congrats.

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gottagrowsometimeanswered grow question 2 years ago

Yup. You are right. Okay, so here's my take on it from when I grew in coco and mistakes I made, (which were many) Okay so say you been feeding your girl 1000ppm a week and you follow up once a week with a hard flush or a best soft flushing the salts from your coco as they will mess with your True ppm reading. So, you want to see at least 2/3rds of that number down. Now if you are not following with soft flushes or low EC feeds say calmag feeds any excess salts will mess with your readings. So, firstly you need to get your feeds marked remember what you give and once a week or even every couple of days for the 1st week so you can tweak your feed till you have it dialed in to where you are only left with a few 100 ppm from doing your test. TEST..So, as I said. You'll need a clear base to see how much your plant is feeding. So for a few days when you feed soft flush later that night with just water, take the PPM of that water and catch the run-off you'll need around a 30% come back for true results as little run off will be high. So usually 2L will do. Or whatever is 30% run off for you at this stage of your grow. So take the ambient ppm from your water (flush) and once you get enough run off take the EC and you should at least see 2/3rds less than what you fed. So if your feed is 1000ppm and later you flush to see how much she's eating you want to see 400 ppm and then take away the ambient water which might be 150 so you are left with 250ppm, so with them results in hand you'll know how much she's eating. *but remember you need a clear base to see how well your plant is feeding and if she's riddled with salts the PPM will be high. You might need to do 2-3 tests before you get true results. That's how I do it. And I did dial mine in to where it was leaving only a couple 100ppm from 1000ppm feed. And also I got to the point where my run off was 8000 lol that's pure nutrient lock and that was from a weeks worth of feeds and she wasn't eating a thing. So hard flush that shit to get a clean baseline and start running your tests. Good luck pal

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