LED light modes veg/bloom

Different proportions of R/B in the light can be technically more beneficial to one phase or the other, but what is more impotant is maxing out DLI relative to local variables (co2, temp, rh). The total amount of light given is more important. i would not sacrifice DLI for tailored wavelengths to such things. if the vege mode gives enough light, then stick with it. if it does not give enough light, having both on is better. Having both on in no way will negatively effect the plant. I doubt you'll be able to see the difference in either mode with the human eye, anyway. red causes taller / less branching and blue causes more branching, less height -- BUT this never changes the overal genetic tendency more than a very small amount -- it can be distinguished from normal volatility, but that doesn't mean is is a HUGE effect. it is a small effect. Statisticalyl significant does not mean it is a major factor.. just that it is likely correlated, which could be very small or large.. depends. in this case it's a small effect. You cannot turn a lanky, stretchy plant into a squat bush with heavy blue in your lights. it will still be lanky and stretchy, if that's what the genetics are. maybe slightly less, but probably not noticeable realtive to genetica variety in a small garden and not applying the scientific method and precise measurements etc... providing max dli is far more important to yield and quality than whether you have a 3000K CCT or 5000K CCT. so you'd have to work with umols/s of light... area of coverage of the light and calculate PPFD then see if you are giving 35-40 DLI per day for ambient CO2 and at least avoiding extreme temps or RH conditions (VPD, but the temp range and rh are individually important too - more than one combination of the two can result in the same VPD so some VPDs would be less optimal than others even if the same value). many brands lie about specs on their lights... so it does take a little familiarity to avoid the nonsense. watts per diode effect efficacy, which in turns effects longevity and umol/s of photons produced per watt. they often use the best-case scenario of the OEM spec sheet (e.g. Samsung's lm301 diode spec sheet) while driving the diodes much hotter (more watts) which reduces everything in a negative way relative to the OEM specs. As an example the LM301B/H diode from samsung -- 25c and 0.25w/diode from their spec sheet -- anything above this will not reach the advertised "50,000 hours of use before intensity drops to 90% of original." they will misuese PPFD and umol/s. double check any math. the equations have to balance out. simple deductive reasoning can avoid the liars. Non-math way.. you can just use trial and error. how are the internodes developing? this is the length between two growth nodes. if stretchy, give more, if too tight, give less light. trial and error will get you there too. if turning on the other mode along with vege does not cause super tight internodes, i'd keep it on. one thing to consider if photoperiod plants and assuming an 18/6 vege cycle of light.... You need 150% of the light over 12 hours to match what you give over 18. so, make sure what you cover in vege can be amped up significantly when you go to 12 hours. if you are running autoflowers, that is not a concern "have to" is a strong phrase... if ypu want to give same energy per day, therefore same growth, you need to bump up power of light when going from 18h per day to 12h per day. you'd be leaving some lost yield on the table, otherwise. 25-40 DLI will grow solid buds, but you want to be up near 35-40 to avoid as much larf as possible.