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How do you feed autos? Do you keep nutrients low all the way or increase later? Curious if and when you use PK13/14 – and how much.

Growtendo64
Growtendo64started grow question 7d ago
Many say autoflowers need fewer nutrients. How do you feed yours? Do you use a reduced schedule the whole grow or increase it later? Do you give PK13/14? If yes, when and how much? I use light BioBizz feed and wonder if a gentle PK boost helps in mid to late flower. Any advice?
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Buds. Other
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00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 6d ago
i've always feed autos exactly like i feed photos -- soilless context. They gow and develop in the exact same ways in similar rates of growth etc etcc. auoflowers are not different except for their trigger to go into flower. fertilizer instructions, especially marijuana brands, consistently tell you to give WAY too much be default. This is what causes the false idea that autoflowers are somehow magically and drastically different. This is an outcome of majority of people overfeeding their plant and one that goes into flower sooner is going to exagerrate the effects of doing so. if you are dealing with mostly an inert substrate at thsi point, 40-60ppm of P and 180-200ppm of K is going to be enough for 90% of plants. If you have amendments in your soil providing some p and k, that needs to be considered in addition to what is added in the fertilization. P and K rely significantly on "active transport." Some does enter through diffusion but there are feedback loops in the plant that makes the intake of P/K more on demand than relying on random diffusion across root membranes. You only have to ensure the 'right' amount is present around the roots... concentrations where it is easily 'grabbed' and transported inside the plant by carrier proteins and also not so high that it interferes with other nutes around the roots. Provision of nutes is not about the ratio of how they are used in the plant. they are about a ratio and concentration that is conducive to being readily available around the roots. This sounds like it is the same thing but it is not. Relative to autoflowers and photoperiods the components of stems, leaves, cellulose, thca et al are still the same. They are not constructed differently. It's the same formulas, the same building instructions in the DNA. The differences between these genetical compatiable plants is almost non-existent outside of how it enters flower phase. if everything is built the same and they grow in similar ways, then the inputs are going to be the same too... in soilless/hydro stick between 1.2-1.5EC ... possibly more with some genotypes and maybe slightly different ratio due to oddball genetics, but the differences will be easily mitigated through observation and slight adjustments to the formula provided. the more whak-a-doo the formula is, the more deviation you may see... imbalanced formulas will manufacture problems and inconsistencies that are easily avoided otherwise.
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Hightai90
Hightai90answered grow question 5d ago
Cronk nutrients Bonnie and clide For the win have a look online
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m0use
m0useanswered grow question 5d ago
https://www.thcfarmer.com/threads/med-man-method-ppm-ec-chart.73326/ This guy made a chart that seems to do ok. reference point and grain of salt though. in soil I find they need a bit less feed vs my photoperiod counterparts but could also be becuase they tend to be smaller plants over all.
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Ultraviolet
Ultravioletanswered grow question 7d ago
98% of what a rootzones uptake comes from the salts in the water solution you feed. 2% are pulled directly from medium. Because your salts do not store in your medium. The cannabis must be fed salts regularly, when they are needed. Every stage of the plant's life requires slightly different ratios depending on what she is growing. How much salts a medium can handle is measured in EC , we keep this within 0.3 and 1.8 As you feed salts the plant uses up the salts it needs and leaves behind what it doesn't use. It's important to keep track of the ec level because if you feed alot of salt minerals the plant doesn't need eventually it will build up in the medium until it goes above 1.8 then problems begin. 99% of everything a plant will need in its life is made up from the 6 macros , npk ca, mg and sulhpur. Abolsoutley everything else is 1%. The more you ask of a plant the more salt electrolytes it will need to fulfill the growth demands you set for it. Feed it what it needs when it needs, water water water until ec tells you it's flush time and reset. Keep your ph in range and when something creeps up there is a 99% it's npk ca mg or sulhpur. Only thing to be careful with is the micros, although you need very tiny amounts they are none the less important. Because they have such small quantities it also means they can have very low toxicity thresholds so be aware. Boron (B): 20-100 ppm Chlorine (Cl): Ohio Ag Net Copper (Cu): 5 to 25 ppm Iron (Fe): 40 to 300 ppm Manganese (Mn): 25 to 160 ppm Molybdenum (Mo): 0.2 to 2 ppm Nickel (Ni): 1-10 ppm Zinc (Zn): 20 to 80 ppm Not exactly what you asked but good information to know. Best of luck in the future.
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Ultraviolet
Ultravioletanswered grow question 7d ago
Body builder who trains to be massive doesnt stick to a recommended average daily meal plan. The meal plan is dictated by the growth and training you incorporate. How much salts you can have in a medium is measured by the electrical conductivity. Keep this within 0.3 and 1.8. How fast your plant utilizes the salts will be determined by the environment you set and a complex combination of the 9 cardinal rules of plant growth. Every plant has slightly different nutrient needs Yes it's always advised to give a plant some p and k during flower.
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pifflestikkz
pifflestikkzanswered grow question 7d ago
I do mine at 50-75% of manufacture recommendations. As for pk13-14 if it's the Plagron one, I use from week 2 of flower after the initial pre sex signs and first week of stretch has happened, hope it helps 🙏✌️💚
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