Some parts are hard to judge -- leaves touching or extremely close to the often wet clay balls will show all sorts of symtpms due to impact on transpiration and when physically touching, absoring more nutes locally than it would receive had they entered through the roots properly.
But, even the new growth is looking a bit meh. This particular formula is not working well, but this plant is robust and even in less than ideal conditions can still turn out okay.
You can use free apps or websites to find these suggested ratios and concentrations.
120-130 N
40-60 P
180-200 K
100+ Ca
75-80 Mg
100ish S
That's a safe low start that should allow the leaves to gradually stock up building blocks as well as provide for as much growth as your enviornment and genetics allow. If they show any greater need, adjust upward in a proportional manner. Calculate from gauranteed analysis labels, don't rely on EC. EC has 20 different conversion factors to ppm that you might as well pick a number out of a hat (exaggeration but still conceptually true, lol). EC is also important for different reasons, but just doesn't convert accurately to PPM. The brand of TDS pen you use will make a 30-40% difference (500-scale to 700-scale) in the ppm value you see converted from EC... just the brand of the device and no logical reason.. the conversion from EC to ppm is a big grey area.
Gauranteed analysis labels are a gauranteed minimum. There's some fudge involved here, too, but it's still more accurate. Depending on the ingredients, it'll be incredibly accurate -- which in the case of soilless/hydro nutrients, they should be very accurate calculations. Ammonium nitrate is a rose is a rose, etc.. There's no circumventing its molecular formula as far as percent of mass for N.
If you used jacks 3-2-1 you'd have no problem running DWC or any hydro/soilless as your first grow. Minimal adjustments needed from instructions, if any. Every garden has some different variables, so some adjustment is always necessary for nutes and lights. A lot of these brands have esoteric formulas that might work well for a few plants, but lack consistency, hence people think hydro is difficult to figure out, but it really isn't if you avoid the bro science stuff and brands with cartoon graphics on the labels like it's some sugary cereal brand marketed to toddlers.