soilless is soilless... coco or sphagnums makes little difference as long as it's properly constituted. coco should be ~33% perlite by volume and sphagnum peat moss should be 50%.. .it's a matter of how much water each holds. Each has roughly the same gas:water mixture, which is the causality that matters in that regard.
If coco is leaching anything, stop buying that brand of coco. Quality 70/30 should be ready to use and properly buffered. If properly buffered, you can ignore all the oft-repeated things about needing more caclium or magnesium. That only happens with poorly produced coco coir or 'raw' coco coir that you need to wash and buffer yourself. Coco isn't magic. It's not superior in any way. It's just a soilless medium. The same rules apply as with anything else and you should treat it the same as anything else as long as it isn't poorly manufactured by an incompetent vendor.
Autopots are a bad choice for soilless. It takes the primary benefit and zeroes it out. Might as well grow in soil at that point without religiously getting runoff. Now, inconsistencies in the medium and buildup are possible, which shouldn't be the case.
Athena fertilizers are also about 5-6x more expensive than they should be. Their feeding schedule suggests unnecessarily high ppms, which will only result in a lot of wasted fertilizer going down the drain or an overfed plant in the context of an autopot and poor soilless watering practices that result.
The 'core' in the pro line is very likely calcium nitrate (14-0-0)... I have never needed a calcium supplement while using caclium nitrate. It's not impossible, but very unlikely you'll need much from another source. They likely stash the trace elements into this product, which is a purely greedy behaviour. You can buy 50lbs of calcium nitrate (15.5-0-0) for 35-40 dollars and buy some trace elements to add vs Athena's butt-raping prices. Not religioulsy getting runoff makes this a more difficult recommendation to give specifics... normally you could just track ppm of your formula per nutrient element and get familiar with necessary levels that avoid 99.99% all problems, but because this is not something you can depend on without the runoff, it makes it more difficult to give a specific way to ensure proper levels of Ca over the long-haul.
to mitigate the drawbacks of an autopot, you better do some regular top-down irrigations occasionally. I'd also throw out the typical standard of 'always fertilize' for soilless as you don't regularly get runoff, so it will slowly build up over time, unlike if adhering to proper irrigation practices for soilless context. You need to treat it a bit more like a soil grow than a soilless grow if using an autopot. So, at least occasionally you should skip the fertilizer in an autopot for a soilless medium..
I use a similar set of products and in total it's 4 cents per gallon mixed.. compare that to your athena fertilizer made with 99% the same ingredients. the ingredients are commodities, so there is not quality difference. Caclium nitrate does not come in different quality, etc. If it's not molecularly the same (where it matters - minimally simplified for context), then it is not calcium nitrate. Brand is irrelevant to outcome... In general, there are not magical fertilizers that outperform other fertilizers (more so with soilless context than soil), so no need to overpay for them. Paying more is just buying snake oil..
if you want to do soilless growing correctly, read the basics outlined on cocoforcannabis.com and the dr photon's corner information.. avoid any user-submitted things unless you can discern between bullshit and reality on your own. They give no-frills suggestions and avoid the bro science nonsense.
Especially if it's really only your second grow. What you are doing requires a lot more read-and-react to keep this grow on track. Soilless growing truly is the easy button if you do it in orthodox ways. Any random person can grow excellent plants starting day 1 with basic instructions with typical soilless methods..