Very nice this is my 4th run with triple and seems i have now mastered her! With extra supplements and additives i was able to acheive this beauty! She has very nice structure and potencty is up there! I recommend this to anybody!!! She smokes like 30% strain The Teprs are out of this world 😍 The buds looks 10/10

Day 19-26 (May 10th - May 17th) (Day 21) Stretch is almost over and the plants still look like they’re in veg. I’m seeing almost zero trichomes and when compared to my other room it’s laughable. At least the sites are starting to fill in a little. One plant is super leggy and stretchy. I’m guessing it’s Jack Herer but won’t know until late flower or harvest. The plant in the far left corner has great structure and thick pistil clumps. I’m guessing it’s either blueberry or the white og. Blueberry has a pretty distinct smell so differentiating all the strains won’t be that hard actually. (Day 24) I’ve been rearranging the plants once in a while just to get all sides exposed to some decent light. I never realized how much I value my LED until this run. The only way I would ever use another hps for flower is if it was one of those 1000w DE lights that all the commercial grows use. Sites are starting to fill in quite a bit now. Trichomes are still non existent though. Even on the archive genetics which is really surprising. (Day 25) Pots somewhat dried out finally. Tomorrow I’m going to leach everything with another 2 liters each and top dress with 15ml of nature’s pride bloom, 10ml of Destiny launch and 5ml of kelp meal. I’m starting to see minor N tox on some of the plants so I will probably give them a full gallon. This tent is largely experimental so I’m going to fuck with these plants pretty heavy to iron out some theories and try some new techniques. (Day 26) When I was watering today I noticed that slurricane, Puro loco and guava cake all hermed. The archives just got too stressed out in early veg I think. When I dug up both plants they were still being choked out by the sponge aerogarden plugs. Puro Loco was leading by far in the trichome department too. The guava cake was from a hermed bagseed so it’s not surprising at all but that kind of pisses me off about the “elite” Archive genetics, especially if you paid 200$ for a 10 pack. Then again, it was still my error and not their genetics. Luckily I didn’t pay a dime for them. Running those was a complete waste of time and space. With proper environment and no seedling stress I’m sure I could have grown some amazing looking stuff. All the European and Canadian genes look fine though. I’m sure they would have filled out a lot more if they weren’t being choked out by hermies. No signs of bananas anywhere else. Hopefully the 4 slurricanes I have outdoor this year will pull through without herming.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Cherry Cola diesel smell ⛽️

Que pasa familia, vamos con la novena y última semana de floración de estas Drizl Pickl feminizadas de Seedstockers. Vamos al lío ,se trasplantaron en macetas de 7 litros definitivamente. El ph se controla en 6.0 , la temperatura la tenemos entre 24/20 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%. El ciclo de floración puse 12h de luz, el foco está al 75% de potencia. Al final a salido todo bien ahora a pegar machete y a preparar el proceso de secado. Las flores salieron bien densas y tricomadas. - os dejo por aquí un CÓDIGO: Eldruida Descuento para la tienda de MARS HYDRO. https://www.mars-hydro.com Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Los Últimos días de vida de la planta ya casi no la regaba, por falta de tiempo y para no generar humedad ambiente, días lluviosos con cortes de luz nos jugaron una mala pasada por eso se decide cosechar, las flores se ven hermosas de colores morados con verdes y amarillos de las hojas más viejas. Un cultivo sin estrés, aplicando productos nuevos y viendo muy buenos resultados. La única decisión mal tomada fue haber lavado raíces tan temprano, podría haber ganado algo más de peso con el monster bloom

Week 4 – Veg Victory & Pre-Flower Moves! The first week in the big tent and wow — these girls absolutely took off! 🌱 Under the SANlight EVOs they didn’t slow down for a second, just kept pushing hard towards the light. The Lemon Cherry Runtz are now running neck and neck with the Papaytons, and both lines are showing super tight structure with thick stems and beautiful color. Even better, the stem rubs are already screaming with terps — seriously, the aromas coming off them at this stage are insane. Couldn’t resist: I picked one standout Papayton, one Lemon Cherry Runtz, and one Biscotti Gelato. All three went into the flower tent after I took cuttings, so I can show you how their buds stack up much earlier. The Biscotti Gelato girls are about two weeks behind, but you can tell they’re pushing hard to catch up. I left the other pheno with the rest in veg — she’ll have a bit more time to build herself up before the flip. The rest are staying in veg for now to really bulk up. Next week I’ll top them, take another round of cuttings, and then it’s their turn to move into flower. These genetics are proving to be super impressive — vigorous growth, lush color, and already oozing character. Excited to see them show off what they can really do! 🔥💚

Je suis vraiment surpris 😲 le tronc a souffert c'est la 2e fois qu'il se fend en 2 cette fois c'est le chat qui a voulu sauter dedans je comprend pas trop il a du kiffer la plante et s'faire un kiff mais bon j'ai des gros dégâts a cause de lui j'ai réparer comme j'ai pu avec de laloe vera en gel pour cicatriser et du propolix (cire d'abeille) pour prevenir d'un état fongique. Dailleur le propolix sa a l'air de marcher je traite par arrosage quand je voit qu'il va pleuvoir +2jour a raison d'1.5ml par litre (entre 69 et 99% d'humidité en général ce mois d'août). Les têtes sont collante et grossise a fond grâce au bactobloom utilisé avant le propolix bien sur et du Green sensation de plagron. J'ai réadapter l'engrais de floraison j'ai changer pour alga bloom. La plante a eu une mini carence car le top bloom de top crop il est vraiment puissant 😂 L'odeur est légère mais pas oppressante c'est une odeur de Zkittlez/Gorilla glue donc En note de tete le sucre typé 🍬 avec des note de pin/gaz avec un soupçon de café. J'ai aussi installer un filet scrog qui ressemble à rien mais qui est efficace pour le vent et bien aéré les têtes car elle vont être dense et lourde je vais devoir surveiller les attaque fongiques de très près. Pour les nuisibles type thrips j'ai jamais eu une seule piqûre sur la gorilla Zkittlez

Transplant time! Got this girl into a five gallon container with added mycos and bacteria. My custom mix is coco and perlite with added amendments, worm Castings and purple cow soil. I add dolomite lime on top and mix it in. They got a small watering. Dimmed to 40% Here are the lights details: Medic Grow Mini Sun-2 150W LED Model: MN150-022 Spectrum mode: V1 Efficacy: 2.8 umol/J Thanks for stopping by! You can find the light on Grow Diaries: https://growdiaries.com/grow-lights/medic-grow/mini-sun-2-150-watts You can find the light on Medic Grow's website: https://medicgrow.com/

Fast drying method with dehumidifier at 21C° for 3 days and dry trimming, even the sugar leaves are smokable and full with amber crystals, no harshness at all. District odours.

Hello. This is the end of week 13 and the beginning of week 14 of veg. Did some light SCRoG training last week, but mostly worked on my second vegie garden I've run in to a snag putting up my top net... I forgot about the middle pole in the 10x10 foot tent. So I guess I've got to cut the net, and tie back up, the cut part. I'll work on that for next week. Plant's # 5 and #6 are less yellow now. I gave them some food with a lower ph -5.5 -to see if that would help with the yellowing. They aren't so quite so yellow today, so I think it helped. I'll do a stronger SCRoG training this week. Getting ready for flowering in a few weeks. OK. Be Great. Chuck.

Greetings, growmies! 🤓 Another week is behind us, and she’s ripening and fattening up like a queen. This was probably the last week with nutrients; next week will be the final one with water only. She’s in great shape and still drinking a lot (she is mature after all, haha). Good day to you all!

8/19/2023 Day 46 Veg: she is finally starting to develop some additional branching. I've been LST and leaf tucking. I was thinking about doing some additional defoliating, but I don't want to slow down her growth anymore. 8/20/2023: started the subirrigation today, with filtered water with a 6.0 ph. 8/21/2023: she is definitely reacting positively to the bottom watering. She was praying more than usual this morning, so hopefully the growth will continue to puck up speed now. 8/23/2023: defoliated a few more of the big fan leaves, to allow more light to the lower branches. 8/24/2023: had to fill up the water again for the subirrigation. Used plane water with a 6.2 ph. Plant is doing great.

Es sind sehr viele Triebe zu sehen sie fängt an sich schön zu entwickeln zeigt ihre Fäden und sieht sehr grün aus ich bin sehr gespannt wie die buds aussehen kannst garnicht abwarten

Day 63 flowering (77 days since flip). This lady smells beautiful now. Her pistils are golden orange in so much of her bud but still pushing last ditch attempts to save herself. Bud size is good and they are rock solid too. love this girl and will be sad to cut her down. Yellowing off nicely ready to eat up those chlorophyll stores in the darkness. She will be in her dark period this evening , 48 hrs and she is going to be trimmed and ready to dry. UPDATE☆☆ day 67 and she is out of her dark period trimmed and hanging for her final harvest. Some great buds on her and i think about 6 oz of solid , orangey nugs. cannot wait to try her out.

Hey everyone 😃. Day 14 since time change to 12/12. During the week they started to form their buds, which is why I will add 2 g of GHSC Powder Feeding Bio Bloom per liter of substrate over the next few days 😃👍. The next few days I will also make some free space so that the energy doesn't end up in mini buds :-). I wish you all a lot of fun with the update and a great week 🍀👌 You can buy this Strain at : https://sweetseeds.es/de/sweet-skunk-f1-fast-version/ Type: Sweet Skunk F1 Fast Version ☝️🏼 Genetics: Sweet Skunk Auto (SWS34) X Early Skunk 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .

Hey everyone 😃. Another wonderful week is over and they are developing really well 👍😃. I think I'll put them in the flower chamber for about the next 2 weeks. until then I wish you all the best 😋 You can buy this Strain at : https://sweetseeds.es/de/sweet-skunk-f1-fast-version/ Type: Sweet Skunk F1 Fast Version ☝️🏼 Genetics: Sweet Skunk Auto (SWS34) X Early Skunk 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .