It’s the last week of flowering, and I’ve moved the plant into 48 hours of darkness to help boost trichome production before harvest. ✨ The plant has developed an incredibly deep purple color and is covered with trichomes—so much so that it sparkles under any light. The scent is amazing, filling the room with a sweet, candy-like fragrance with a touch of diesel. 🍬 When I trimmed a few leaves to prep for harvest, my scissors actually turned purple from the resin! That’s a first for me and shows just how rich and sticky the trichomes are on this plant. 😮✂️💜 I’m so excited to see how it looks and smells once it’s fully dried. This grow has been unforgettable! 😁🌿✨

So this was a simple going grow!!! It’s strange how the hot so big under the light! I had one blue cheese under the same light and tent and it was way smaller!! Anyway 1 of these has come out perfect very happy the other two I’m not to sure the hairs were still pointing up but I really don’t have the time to have them going another week there already over the time they was supposed to be done but yeah I’d say out of 10 I’d rate this blue cheese growing experience a 6 out of 10 hopefully this improves when it’s dry!!!

Day in and exit fan 15 min off 15 min on Van is full on Night in and exit fan 30 min off 15 min on Van is off Lst tranings return Nutrients started 0.5gr/1L at day 21 400ML Per Pot Day 24 Grow powder 0.75gr/1L Short Flowering 0.5gr/1L 400ML Per Pot Day 26 Grow Powder 1.5gr/1L Short Flowering 1gr/1L 600ML Per Pot Day 28 Grow Powder 1.5gr/1L Short Flowering 1gr/1L 600ML Per Pot

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Super sour grape(small it was stunned early ) Bruce strawberry Fumes Watermelon Zkittles Fumes

Hey guys! Sorry for the big delay since my previous grow! Right now I'm growing some babies from Royal Queen Seeds! Kali Dog! 😃 The first week was calm! The babies broke out from their shells rather fast and two babies grew out of their jiffy pods rather fast! Also, since the strain is Kali Dog I decided to name each of the plants with a different dog name! I'm still unsure about the names but the first two are called Roko and Max! For the first time I also noticed the first buds looked... different? You'll be able to see them in the photos tho... and once again two of my babies are suffering from helmet head 😰 But eh, I'm used to it. Gladly it's an easy error to fix. I'll try to make a longer timelapse (these were bad!) but I didn't know my camera battery wasn't enough for long sessions 😝 Anyway, thanks for reading! See you all next week! 👋

I started germination of 3 Gorilla Girl beans on 29/12/2020. I pre moistened my rockwool cubes with ph balanced water to 6.4. Made sure the plugs were just damp and not soaked. Using a small wooden dowel I increased the size of the plugs pre made holes. Than I sowed my beans into the holes. Ripped off a small piece of rockwool and mulched it up. Lightly filled the holes in with the mulched rockwool. Than stuck the plugs into a misted humidity dome, to complete germination. Shouldn't take anymore than 4-5 days to see some sprouts. Once I see some cotlydon leaves bursting to the surface. I will get the plugs planted into some 1 gallon pots. Plus get these ladies situated into their home. Cant wait! Some background information on my experience with Gorilla Girl. I've only grown this variety out once. Did her in a 1 gallon SOG grow and she was a beast! Fat Chunky main cola just loaded to the tits in trichomes. Amazing bud structre and a definite cut above alot of the genetics flooding the market. I cant wait to let this variety loose in a larger scale grow. See what these powerhouse genetics really have to offer. Haven't grown out much sweet seeds stuff. But what I did test drive got there genetics into a larger setup. So caps off to them.

First week of flowering. The plant will stretch, so i adjusted the LED dimmer to 100%. Did a good defoliation too. Doing good, very healthy. Smell very good.

This little orange sherbet was topped on day 10 and is growing well. I ran out of calimagic due to a shipping issue. I was hoping that tap water would give them enough cal mag but the plants started showing rusty spots symptoms of calcium deficiency. The only cal mag that I could find locally is Gringo Rasta from fox farm. I gave her a dose of it but it is too early to tell if it is going to work. I am skeptical about any organics in my system from past experiences but the pH is holding steady after a couple days so hopefully it will work out. Other than that they are still getting 24 hour light and I am starting to think that I might have to figure out a way to spread the plants further apart. A couple of them are getting pretty big.

Week #6 Gnomo Auto/ Kannabia Week 6 Dec.2-Dec.9 Gnomo Auto she is in week 2 of flower and looking nice she has really grown the last 2 weeks both vertically and horizontal as she's bushy but starting to stretch.

Preflowers everywhere 😎 She went through a serious defoliation without any issue. She drinks a lot. Hopefully the stretch should be almost done, available height is limited and I don't want to dim the QuantumBoard, it is now at full strength, 320W so 110W per board. This OG looks promising!

Week 10 – Day 71 Flower Day 43 ⚠️ Mimosa Evo – Hermie Alert! Unfortunately, some bad news last week: I found a few bananas (nanners) on one of Mimosa Evo’s main colas – a couple were already open 😬 🔍 I immediately removed the affected buds and checked the entire plant thoroughly. So far, only that one cola was affected – nothing new has popped up yet ✅ If you spot anything suspicious in the pictures: feel free to shout! 😅 🤷‍♂️ Cause remains unclear – could be light stress, or maybe just genetics. Still around 2 weeks to go, so I’m keeping a close eye and hoping for the best. 🌿 Current status – Mimosa Evo She still looks stable and healthy overall 🌱 ✅ No new nanners found since the cleanup 🌼 Buds are developing, but noticeably less swollen compared to White Widow I suspect the hermie stress might have diverted energy away from flower production or impacted development.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

She's fat, healthy and about ready to be chopped :) She will start flushing at the end of this week

Week 8: Day 50-53: Things are looking ok here, could be better. Still assuming my soil is too acidic certain nutrients to lock out. I now believe what I thought was a calmg deficiency on 4AM#1 was actually a phosphorous lockout in combination with the aforementioned calmg. Day 50 I watered with PH 6.5 and got runoff around 5.5 PH. 4AM#3 was visibly worse off, and no real improvements to the other 2 either(both had signs of calmg deficiency in combination with various other small deficiencies it seemed like). Day 54-56: Seeing no real improvements in any of the 3 plants I decided I would flush them on with 6.5 PH'd water only with regulator until runoff read atleast 6PH. After about 4-5L the runoff was 6+PH, seemed to me like there was a slight build up in the bottom so the first 3L cleared that up quite nicely(runoff was around 5.7). I then fed them 2-2.5L feeding of calmg and regulator with some Biocanna Boost PD'd to 6.5 immediately after flushing. Runoff was pretty much 6.3-6.5 on all plants at this point. I think I am happy with the results of the small flush, this IS my first time indoors(last summer first time was outdoor and I never really dealt with deficiences), so not sure if what I did was correct, I just went with my gut feeling here. Anyway on day 56 now and they haven't gotten any worse, and the leaves feel healthier to the touch. Also seem to be liking the addition of the 150W COB, also decided to lower the lights and see if they could take it(they could). End of Week 8: I don't think I will get more much bulk on 4AM#1 but daaamn is she frosty as hell. 4AM#2 on the other hand is bulking up real nice, those are going to be some fat buds! And 4AM#3 seems to be a slower finishing pheno and seems like she will bulk up loads more, going to be a beast I reckon if the deficiencies didn't stunt her from the last 2 weeks(leaves felt dry and showed yellowing and spots, but are doing better and feel better after the flush).

Start just water this week;)))))

The first week of vegetation is complete, and the plant is off to an okay start! After spending 5 days in the seedling station, I transplanted it into a 15L fabric pot, which will be its final home since it’s an autoflower.🌱 Initially, things weren’t perfect—the first set of leaves turned yellow, likely because I forgot to add coco to the area where I planted it.😅 However, the plant recovered quickly and is now bouncing back nicely! One hiccup was the time-lapse footage—it’s a bit shaky because the fan was directed at the plant, causing some wobble. Overall, I’m optimistic about the plant’s progress and looking forward to seeing how it develops in the coming weeks.🌱 (the plant in the little pot is my first phenotype Runtz muffin from barneys farm that i got gifted and i am getting the setup right now)