Pleased with how this plant is doing. Lots of stretch this week and looks like she's still got more in her. Still been training the tops where i want them but the branches are getting stiff now so that's nearly it. The cooling fan on my grow light is really noisy and the loudest thing of my setup by far. So i have changed it for a much higher quality one and it's amazing! Night and day difference for noise and performance too! See before and after videos. I have a feeling i might run out of space in the middle with the 4 buds. Also that the outside ones are too close but we will see. Any comments welcome or suggestions. As i keep saying, all a learning process to get better each time. I am already planning my next grow which will either be do si dos auto or gorilla zkittlez auto both from Barney's Farm. Have a possible weeks fishing trip on 7th Aug. So has it not finished by then I will buy a water pump and set it on a timer. As i expect i will be flushing around then so just ph water through the pump. Thanks for looking P.s. Planted 2 more outdoors today - 1 went with the other 5 and 1 in its own spot. See last photo of the now 6 outdoors!

Amazing growth. Pleased with these new LEDs. Lollipopped & defoliated, tried to leave some on the bottom, will probably pick a few more off this week Reducing lights to 11/13 and then to 10/14 at week 6. Trying something.(Emulating an autumn/fall environment with temprature drops also) Hopefully I can get the nice purple colours to come out. Will also be adding Deep Red now. UVA has been on all flower.

Hello 👋 and welcome back. I've been really, really stoned for a month or two. I do enjoy a good cleaning. No need to be rushing this one, I've got a lot of stuff to tweak in the grow tent. Give it a good scrub to boot. Added a bunch of organic amendments to the medium and reloaded mineral content. Giving it a few weeks to let everything break down, settle in, and balance out before beginning, I'll be doing a thorough pH and EC prior to placing anything in the final pot and making sure to give it a good till in the top soil once everything is broken down into more palatable size. Organic fertilizer = organic matter that's still in the process of breaking down. Mineral fertilizer = salt mineral that's already broken down and ready for uptake in its current form. Synthetic mineral fertilizer = man-made minerals ready for uptake in their current form. Synthetic concentrated fertilizer = man-made concentrates that don't exist in nature. Adding this grow. 500g Horticultural charcoal. 454g Elite Shungite Coal (Fullerene C60). 1kg Spirulina is approx NPK 10%, 100g/1kg (N), 20% 200g/1kg (P), and 20% 200g/1kg (K). In 1 kg (1000g) of spirulina, you can expect approximately 50 mg to 177 mg of Zeaxanthin. 1 kg of moringa powder, approximate NPK : 4.8% N, 0.5% P, and 1.9% K. 500g Azomite. (Ultimate mineral micro nutrient). 1kg of Gaia green 4-4-4, 1kg of 4-4-4 fertilizer contains 4% which is equivalent to 40 grams of each in 1000g. 500g eggshells, 20grams of calcium per 500g. Generally, the more organic matter a plant breaks down, the higher the soil's electrical conductivity (EC) tends to be. This is because the breakdown of organic matter releases nutrients into the soil solution, which increases the concentration of dissolved ions that conduct electricity. Roots and microorganisms do not directly compete for electrical conductivity itself. However, they do interact in the rhizosphere, a zone around plant roots where microbes and plants compete for resources like nutrients and water, which can indirectly influence electrical conductivity. Plant roots release exudates (carbon) into the soil, providing energy and nutrients for microbes. In return, microbes can help plants access nutrients, particularly in the rhizosphere, where nutrient availability can be high. Both roots and microbes compete for the same resources, such as phosphorus (P) and iron (Fe). Factors like microbial decomposition of plant-derived chelators and the proximity of microbes to the root surface can influence this competition. Carbon 60 (Fullerene) can enhance plant growth by boosting microbial activity in the soil, improving water retention, and even increasing plant biomass and yield. It's not a fertilizer, but rather a soil amendment that acts as an ideal companion product for fertilization programs. Studies have shown that fullerenes can influence soil bacterial communities and potentially activate processes like nitrogen transformation in the soil. Some research suggests that fullerenes can increase the availability of nutrients and enhance plant growth. Buckminsterfullerene is a type of fullerene with the formula C60. It has a cage-like fused-ring structure (truncated icosahedron) made of twenty hexagons and twelve pentagons, and resembles a soccer ball. Each of its 60 carbon atoms is bonded to its three neighbors. Shungite coal, particularly the "precious Shungite" variety, is known to contain fullerenes, with a higher content found in Shungite of category 3. The most common fullerene, C60 (also known as buckminsterfullerene or a buckyball), is a well-studied example. The influence of water-soluble carboxylated light fullerene derivatives on the physiological plant state is not well studied. The addition of Spirulina is primarily for zeaxanthin, as it contains a lot. But on top of that, Hawaiian Spirulina is cultivated in open ponds using a combination of 100% fresh potable water from Hawaiian aquifers and ultra-pure, deep ocean water containing all 94 trace minerals & elements. It is then gently dried using patented Ocean Chill Drying technology and cold-pressed to ensure maximum nutrient levels. Spirulina, a blue-green alga, is rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (NPK), making it an excellent source of nutrients for plant growth. Studies have shown that Spirulina can be used as a biofertilizer, effectively replacing chemical fertilizers, especially for nitrogen with a whopping, NPK of 10% (N), 20% (P), and 20% (K). Azomite needs no introduction; Just incase, Azomite delivers 70+ minerals and trace elements to boost BRIX, root strength, soil vitality, and yields. Micronized. Moringa is a highly nutrient-dense plant, often called the "miracle tree" or "tree of life" due to its impressive nutritional profile and potential health benefits. It's particularly rich in vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, and other bioactive compounds, making it a valuable resource for addressing malnutrition and promoting overall health. Containing over 92 verifiable nutrients, Moringa oleifera is found to be the most nutrient-dense plant on earth. As far as we know this is the only place online where we list all 92 (and more) nutrients of the Moringa tree and we list all 46 antioxidants of the Moringa tree too. Deep in the Himalayas is a tree called Moringa oleifera, also known as the drumstick tree, and throughout the subtropics, this tree is cultivated for its amazing health benefits. This amazing tree has the ability to grow in an array of conditions, and its health benefits are astonishing. The drumstick tree contains a staggering 92 nutrients and 46 natural antioxidants and as it also holds a number of anti-inflammatory compounds. The sheer number of nutrients found in this tree brings it to the top of the superfoods list, and in its native locations, it is said to have the ability to help treat more than 300 diseases and illnesses. To give you an idea, just a single serving of the Moringa tree contains: 4 times the amount of calcium in the same amount of milk. More vitamin C than 7 oranges. Double the protein and 3 times the amount of potassium in a banana. It's high antioxidant levels can help fight free radicals, potentially slowing down the ageing process and promoting longevity. It is thought to be able to help lower cholesterol levels and regulate blood pressure, due to the high levels of niacin and vitamins B3 and B10. A serving of 100g of this tree gives: Over 8g protein Over 400mg potassium Nearly 450mg calcium 164mg vitamin C 738 ¼g of vitamin A. Moringa also contains vitamins B1, B2, B3, B6, B7, A, C, K, E and D. Amino Acids: In addition, it contains various other nutrients, including the following essential amino acids: Threonine – a nutrient that helps metabolism and prevents fatty buildup in the liver. It also aids digestion. Isoleucine – good for a healthy brain and helps to give the body natural energy. Leucine – works hand in hand with isoleucine to increase energy levels. Phenylalanine – aids communication between the brain’s nerve cells and also helps to reduce hunger pangs as well as increasing alertness and improving memory. Tryptophan – supports your immune system, and its mood boosting ability helps to beat depression and anxiety-associated insomnia. It also reduces the risk of heart attack and lowers bad cholesterol levels. Lysine – aids the absorption of calcium into the bones, supports antibodies and regulates various hormones as well as inhibiting the growth of virus cells. Methionine – provides the body with sulphur as well as helping to lower cholesterol. It also supports the liver, kidneys, and helps keep skin, hair and nails healthy. Valine – helps to keep the mind calm. There are other amino acids in Moringa too, which are not essential to the body but are still beneficial in supporting health. These include histidine, alanine, glutamic acid, arginine, cysteine, proline, aspartic acid, glycine, serine, and tyrosine. Moringa seeds contain oils that hold high levels of oleic acid, which may act to reduce inflammation. https://amchara.com/detox-cleanse/92-nutrients-and-46-antioxidants-in-one-tree-maringa-oleifera/ 4.8% N, 0.5% P, and 1.9% K. Moringa can also serve as a natural source of nitrogen, potentially replacing chemical fertilizers. About 95% of the dry eggshell is calcium carbonate weighing 5.5 grams. The average eggshell contains about . 3% phosphorus and . 3% magnesium and traces of sodium, potassium, zinc, manganese, iron and copper. 1 ppm in water (mg/L) = 1 ppm in soil (mg/kg) If you use 10 grams of 10-20-20 fertilizer in 4 liters of water: Nitrogen: (10 grams * 10/100 * 1000000) / 4000 mL = 2500 ppm N Phosphorus: (10 grams * 20/100 * 1000000) / 4000 mL = 5000 ppm P Potassium: (10 grams * 20/100 * 1000000) / 4000 mL = 5000 ppm K In summary, to determine the precise ppm of an NPK fertilizer, you need to know the specific weight of fertilizer used, the volume of water, and the NPK percentages. The general formula and example calculations can help you make these conversions.

New week, same deal... She's growing and things are looking good. Roots are now starting to make it to the water so she's going to be upgrading to a little stronger brew on the next rez change.

Boom boom booom explosive growth this girl is dominant and strong I haven’t been feeding her a lot of bites and she is doing amazing flipping to flower in couple she looks a heavy yielder can’t wait to see

Day 32 she’s exploded and the lady I was most excited to get going. I mean who doesn’t love a Russian 👌🏻 Can’t wait to watch her grow. She took very well to the leaf tucking and loving touches.

I reduced nutrition dosis as I expect harvest in about two weeks. Apart from that, nothing really happened and everything run as planned.

Più ci avviciniamo al raccolto e più sento che ne è valsa la pene investire tempo in questa piantina

This week is really important for me as I changed the light to 12 Hours. It’s time for the Fruit Spirit to get into flowering. I am a little worried as the leaves look strange. The Blue Cheese Automatic is almost ready to harvest. Looks like this full moon will be the last. It smells amazing 🤩 3G growing strong 💪

Ciao a tutti! Ho finalmente finito il mio primo giro in idroponica. Dunque, al netto dei miei errori che avevo messo in preventivo, è un metodo davvero ottimo per coltivare. Salta subito all'occhio la velocità palese con cui crescono le piante, molto di più rispetto al metodo classico a terra. A suo favore posso anche dire che lascia molto più pulito il box non avendo terra e quant'altro. I vasi da svuotare sono pratici, mi sono segnato però delle tacche per segnare i livelli a diversi litri, da poter capire come fare quando si deve rabboccare di acqua. Le note dolenti. Beh innanzitutto sconsigliato assolutamente a luglio e agosto per via delle temperature, l'acqua nel vaso dovrebbe stare a 22 gradi al massimo, io stavo almeno a 5 in più. Poi, avendo 35 litri d'acqua in 3 vasi e avendo 10 prodotti da utilizzare nella quantità di 2 ml/l, non posso dire che sia la via più economica. Anche se bisogna valutare anche che, soprattutto in vegetativa, si rabboccano i prodotti anche a distanza di 2 settimane,quindi con ampie pause tra una volta e l'altra. Ho sbagliato a calcolare l'allungamento quando le ho girate in fioritura, si sono allungate almeno il doppio di quello che pensavo e così facendo non si sono formati dei bei fiori apicali grossi, ma tanti fiori sulla stessa ramificazione e quindi ci ho rimesso almeno in impatto visivo di sicuro. Però questa è una cosa che dipende dalla velocità dell'idroponica, la prossima volta lo so e mi comporterò di conseguenza. Nota dolente assai: la muffa. Ho sbagliato a volerla fare nel periodo estivo, fa troppo caldo e per mitigare la temperatura ho usato anche l'umidificatore in fioritura. Errore madornale, ho buttato via 60-70 grammi. Già l'estate scorsa ho avuto problemi di temperatura, la prossima sicuramente non coltiverò, sono stato un cretino.

Flower Week 1 Day 0 to 6 - 4/22 to 4/28 Flip week and same day extreme defoliation to encourage top stretch. (flip day was actually 4/24) The defoliation of everything below the bottom two nodes really shows the difference of breakage on these. I'm glad I ran these through to the end as you can see the difference more directly on the same plants rather than 2 separate plants. (although Im sure you can gather the same information that way too) Feed this week was an auto pot reservoir feed at 600ppm total before add-ins. I used 450ppm Veg concentrate mix (recipe week 2) and increased to 150ppm Bloom concentrate mix (recipe week 5). I also added 1ml/gal of CaliMagic (General Hydroponics 1-0-0) and ph balance this week was for 5.8 as it will be for the rest of the grow Videos Defoliation before and after Next week I plan to train the stretch and lowest branches for Schwazze defoliation on day 21 of flower. Feed next week will increase to 650ppm and it will be the first reduction of Veg Mix.

Tag 16 Spitzen der Pflanzen weiter mit einem Draht runtergebunden (LST). Töpfe gedreht, weil die Blätter die warme Luft aus dem Lüfter nicht vertragen haben. Das Autopotsystem funktioniert gut, der Tank ist schon halb leer. Die Banana Purple Punch ist bisher am besten entwickelt.

Que pasa familia, vamos con la primera semana de floracion de estas FBA2506 de FastBuds. De las 5 plantas, retiré una y me quedaré con 4 , preselección. La tierra que utilizamos que está en la publicación anterior es top crop all mix, Por supuesto el ph se mide en cada riego y se mantiene en 6.2, regando cada 48 horas e intentando mantener la humedad un poco alta al principio. Las próximas semanas vamos viendo cómo avanzan. Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Looking well so far. Will update properly when I have more time

The white continues to grow very well, the new branches born from topping grow quickly and grow well, beautiful brunches are expected. The trunk widens impressively. We use Neem Oil + Potassium Soap for protection every 3 days and Lord Grow nourishing foliar every 15 days to protect, improve and give co2 via the leaf.

This week is special, i got the New System from ac infinity. I need to get comfort with everything, but its realy high Qualität. For now we can get the best vpd for the lady, so i hope the best for the grow.

Fed with nutrients 8/29 Start of week 5 flower : 8/30/25 Fed with water 9/3 Fed with nutrients: 9/5/25

A lots been going on 😉 Day 30 of veg for the candyman! All tops now reaching for light and filling out again 😏 I got people telling me what's the point or I'm stupid for doing some stuff I do but that's just me 🤷‍♂️🏼🤣 don't tell me I can't do something because I'll prove you wrong like I did with my last autos 😉 Pretty happy with the training this run. Will Let them grow for about another 20 days then it's flip time Update: looks to be showing early signs of sex I think it's female

Zkittlez auto