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1st grow with new Hydroponics system

7
45
20
2012
2 years ago
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7
Indoor
Room Type
Main-Lining
weeks 6-11
HST
weeks 8-12, 15
ScrOG
weeks 11-21
LST
weeks 4, 6-10
Topping
weeks 4-9
Defoliation
weeks 7-14
Expanded Clay
Grow medium
Strain
Chemdawg
ILGM
Growing it
Normal
Resistance
Weak
I feel like this strain could've turned out better if it wasn't mixed with others in the same hydro system. Not as heavy as I'd like and could've been stronger.
The Outcome
Week 21
Harvest
What's on the scales?
314.963
gram
ounce
Bud wet weight
Harvested
3
Number of plants harvested
Grow Room
6.9677
ft²
Grow Room size
0.43
plant / m²
186.58
watt / m²
Reviews. Nutrient
Seemed like this helped with making my girls more frosty!
I'm not too sure it this stuff worked that well. These tiny hairs that should grow on the roots wasn't as explosive as is claimed.
Again another great brand with great products!
This stuff is just AMAZING!!! GET IT!!!
Another good product.
Didn't use this for more than a week or so so I can't really give an honest review on this.
Reviews. Lamp
Great lights...just wish the footprint was bigger, only 4x4
Commented by
Hydro_guy Hydro_guy
2 years ago
This strain grew well but not as vigorous as I'd like. Again one strain at a time in the hydro system.
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Grow Questions
Hydro_guy
Hydro_guystarted grow question 3 years ago
So can anyone tell me from experience what are good light dimmer settings and height above seedlings for a SpiderFarmer SF7000? And for the other stages of life would be great. First time using LED's and don't want to fry my babies, I used to use MH and HPS lights.
Solved
Setup. Lighting
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m0use
m0useanswered grow question 3 years ago
They have light intensity PPFD maps available on their product page. They said germination is 24-30" at 50% power. https://www.spider-farmer.com/products/sf7000-foldable-led-grow-light/ This should all be with the materials the light came with. But if not save the page as a PDF for future reference or download its manual. Best Of Luck!
Hydro_guy
Hydro_guystarted grow question 3 years ago
OK so my plants are barely growing and they're drooping a little. Not sure if it's over watering bc I'm in hydroponics. Or if light is my issue or nuts or temp/RH? Can anyone point me in the right direction? Don't wanna lose these guys.
Open
Leaves. Wilting
Plant. Stem - Weak
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Answer
I_Identify_As_A_Dan
I_Identify_As_A_Dananswered grow question 2 years ago
make sure ur ph is in check and oxygen levels
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Hydro_guy
Hydro_guystarted grow question 3 years ago
OK here's today's update, 3/9/22. They are all doing great, they're all standing proud now! I think they needed to dry out a little, more light and needed the extra nuts. What do any of you guys think could've caused these symptoms that my girls are/have shown?
Solved
Leaves. Color - Yellow
Leaves. Color - Mottling
Plant. Stem - Red or purple
1 like
Ezzjaybruh
Ezzjaybruhanswered grow question 3 years ago
Not enough base nutes it would seem, if you’re still at .6 ml a gallon on the flora trio. Wrote some more on your diary. Hope it helps.
Hydro_guy
Hydro_guystarted grow question 3 years ago
Can someone please tell me what's going on with my plants? They aren't doing good..
Open
Leaves. Tips - Die
Leaves. Color - Yellow
Leaves. Color - Dark-brown
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Answer
gottagrowsometime
gottagrowsometimeanswered grow question 3 years ago
Hey, so I've been looking thru your diary. You have a few issues. With DWC the PH needs to be 5.8-6.3 max around 6 is more in the range your nutes used in the right amount. Also you are giving way too much too quick. Cut the bloom push your ml/l at least up to 1ml/L with all mixed without bloom you should be aiming for 5-700ppm and slowly build up. You are suffering from underfeeding and your N-P-K ratios are well off. 5-1-3 is fine for growth. 5 parts N 1 part P and so on. But simply put, drop some nutes and focus on bringing up your PPM you are using way too little. Real easy fix. Feel free to DM if you want more info. Good luck pal.
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Noxe7
Noxe7answered grow question 3 years ago
Hola amigo regula tu medidor de pH y baja potencia lumínica es carencia severa de calcio Pulveriza con nutrientes quelatados Y también con las sales de Epson 3 veces al día Baja potencia lumínica Un saludo amigo Much løve 💚
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GMSgrows
GMSgrowsanswered grow question 3 years ago
This is a hydroponic or a soiless feed chart. Make sure you ph your water at 5.8 for veg, check everyday. Feed chart for photos. Day their born, 400 ppm, 0.8 ec. See good growth that week up to 500 ppm, 1.0 ec. Next week and you see good growth, 600ppm 1.2ec Every week you increase 100 ppm if your seeing good growth. If your not seeing good growth then stay with that amount an extra week. Stop increasing when hit 800 ppm, 1.6 ec. Only give more if you see they really need. Soilless recovers or goes bad very quickly.. If their autos start at 200 ppm from sprout and work your way to 600 to 650 ppm. Keep your water cool with frozen water bottles around and inside your rez if you have one..Clean your buckets once a week or 2 At 3 weeks for an auto ppm ec levels should be 450 ppm 0.9 ec for a photo period plant at 3 weeks should be at 600 ppm 1.2 ec
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Hydro_guy
Hydro_guystarted grow question 3 years ago
Thanks guys for your help. I'm currently flushing them for 24 hours then I'll start fresh. I'm using RO/DI water. First I plan on adding cal/mag till my ppm is around 150-200, then add the other nuts to bring me to around 550 ppm. Does that sound right?
Open
Feeding. Deficiences
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Answer
m0use
m0useanswered grow question 3 years ago
I agree with NobodysBuds.
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Benzels
Benzelsanswered grow question 3 years ago
I agree it sounds a bit weak in the mix to me. Id go for 500ppm with your nute mix then add the 150 pm cal mag, so your wanting more like 650 ppm. The cal mag is an additive most of the time and can be left out as most good nute mixes have trace elements in the mix anyways, so I dont actually count it when adding up my PPM. If I want to use 500 PPM nute mix, thats about 2 mls per liter for my nute brand. My cal mag says 1 ml per liter to maintain levels and 2 mls per liter for signs of defec. I also use humaboosta (humic/fluvic acid) Now to make up my mix id add 2 mls per liter of part A, and 2mls per liter of part B. Then test the mix. If its 500 PPM as wanted great. Use this mix as is and next time put the additives in if wanted, this mix was a test to make sure the bottle directions = what they should be. Then in future u know what u need to add without having to test it. Now the way to actually prep a mix, The proper order for mixing plant nutrients Step 1) Start With Silica if using it. Step 2) Add your base nutrients. Step 3) Add your cal-mag. Step 4) Add any other additives last. Step 5) Finishing by pHing your nutrient solution.
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NobodysBuds
NobodysBudsanswered grow question 3 years ago
if you add a volume of water @ 150ppm,.... then add another volume with its own ppm of 550... neither will be the same once in teh substrate together. e.g. if 1L each, then you'd have half the ppm of each for a total of 350ppm (75 + 275). you should be able to add cal mag to a fully dissolved solution of your "550ppm" without causing a precipitate. unless it is a drastic change, i'd just irrigate as normal with this mix. skip the flush. Ah, i see you are in hydro, so simply changing the rez or bucket etc will effectivley transition to your new mix of nutes. easy-peasy. Okay, i see the damage in the diary. the pic attached to question above looks nice. Check roots for any slime or off-color not related to nutes. Pic 17 looks like nitrogen def. The other damage looks like potassium deficiency? try bumping up to a 700-750 ppm mix. double check your pH in any rez with issues and the roots, of course. easy to rule that stuff out, first. you calculate your ppms? do it for each molecules.. compare below: 130 / 50 / 200 NPK and 100+/80+/110 Ca/Mg/S - some of the secondary stuff will depend on tap water a bit, and should have your trace elements in any 1 part of your "hydro" nute lineup. consider these ballpark figures... adjustments from here as need based on observing plants. based on ppm you have fed, i have a hard time seeing a toxicity. it would have to be pH or ratio of nutes imbalance of large proportion.
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Hydro_guy
Hydro_guystarted grow question 3 years ago
Is Orca liquid mycorrhizae good to use? For beneficial bacteria to keep roots and solution clean?
Open
Feeding. Deficiences
Feeding. Other
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Answer
DYNOMYCO
DYNOMYCOanswered grow question 3 years ago
Hey @Hydro_guy, Just to be clear, mycorrhizae are different kinds of fungus that attach themselves to the roots of the plants, causing a reaction that will develop and grow the roots even more - allowing more water/nutrient absorption. DYNOMYCO MYCORRHIZAL PREMIUM INOCULANTS was developed solely for Cannabis cultivation and it's 100% organic. The great difference from DYNOMYCO to the average brand is the number of propagules per gram (which is the mycorrhizae potency). While the usual brand counts within average 300 propagules per gram, DYNOMYCO'S formula was composted with 900/ propagules per gram. You should check out our website and hit me up for a promo code! 😉 https://www.dynomyco.com/ Happy Grow!
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Ezzjaybruh
Ezzjaybruhanswered grow question 3 years ago
If you’re running sterile nutrients like flora trio.. I don’t think there’s any point to it unless you’re having issues. Great white fucked my roots up in DWC when I used it, caused immediate wilting.
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m0use
m0useanswered grow question 3 years ago
its the liquid version of great white and its a great product. Will need an enzyme product for clean roots is I'm not mistaken. CANNAZYM is one of the better ones on the market but its all about active ingredients and fillers. Good Luck!
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Hydro_guy
Hydro_guystarted grow question 3 years ago
So I did my flush and added all my nuts back this morning. Right now my ppm is 650, room temp 76, solution temp 71, RH 60%, sf7000 leds at 70% intensity @ 28 inches. Does this sound good? Should i raise my temp or RH? Entering 4th week of veg tomorrow.
Open
Feeding. Schedule
Feeding. Chemical composition
Feeding. Deficiences
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Answer
Hydro_guy
Hydro_guyanswered grow question 3 years ago
@Exbeginner What happens if canopy temp is 86 but PPFD values are over 1000? I heard that's the max that they can use without CO2.
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Hydro_guy
Hydro_guyanswered grow question 3 years ago
Thanks, I'll increase my light intensity til I hit 86 at the canopy...fingers crossed!
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Benzels
Benzelsanswered grow question 3 years ago
Turn the light down. A 7000 series light isnt small is it? Id be running it at 50% for now, That be more than enough for now and cheaper power bills too. And while plant is recovering from an issue its usually a good idea not to blast the shit out of them with light. They have enough going on and dont need light stress on top of it all.
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Hydro_guy
Hydro_guystarted grow question 3 years ago
So how do my plants look everyone? Thoughts?
Open
Leaves. Other
Plant. Other
Feeding. Other
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Answer
m0use
m0useanswered grow question 3 years ago
I think you are lacking some Micros and macros in them. some of them looks ok others hurting. Review your feeding schedule and amounts and confirm it aliens with your plan and plants needs. Good Luck!
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JerkFlowers
JerkFlowersanswered grow question 3 years ago
Between okay and deficient, depending on the plant. I think they could use some more nitrogen to go for deeper greens. Just up the nutes and keep what you're doing.
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Organoman
Organomananswered grow question 3 years ago
To be honest, not that healthy. Sorry.
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Hydro_guy
Hydro_guystarted grow question 3 years ago
Hey just wondering what everyone's using for humic acid/fluvic acid/seaweed in hydroponics DWC? What's the best one out there that may possibly contain all three. I like general hydroponics but I'm open to using other brands.
Open
Feeding. Other
1 like
Answer
Benzels
Benzelsanswered grow question 3 years ago
I swear by it, but its strong and should only be used sparingly on plants in mid veg onwards in my opinion as its too easy to over dose on really small plants and they end up sorta mutated lookin... But when used properly its effing epic how fast the shit works!! I use Hy- Gens Humiboosta and I promise if used with your nutes the uptake is def much better/faster. I know synthetic nutes are fast acting anyways but it really does look like it knocks a day or two off how long it takes to notice a change in the plants after a feeding with this stuff in it. My base veg nutes have a touch of humic/fluvic acids in them already but it seems the more you use within the tolerance of the plant, the better the results- right up til you use too much and the leaves crinkle and she starts growin funny lookin and semi stunts for a bit... so be warned. the resin production on my zkittlez from the last dose of this went into overdrive in id say 48 hrs, just started weeping resin. Real low last dose two weeks before harvest on its own, and stopped nutes the week before that. I just chopped a shoe box full of buds off today as they are lookin real close if not there already so doing a small test batch to see, just cant believe they should have 10 more days at least on em. Never had a plant race thru flower so fast before in my life. Only thing I changed really this year was adding this stuff. The other brands I used back in the day were good, but nothing like this stuff.
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Ultraviolet
Ultravioletanswered grow question 3 years ago
Npk industries raw humic acid Npk Industries raw full up (fulvic) Use organic sea kelp powder as a soil ammendment or top dressing. Atlantis do some great/cheap combos on Amazon too check them out.
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gottagrowsometime
gottagrowsometimeanswered grow question 3 years ago
These types of things really are meant for soil. Any good micro enzyme to help nute uptake and a easy grow,bloom a micro nute that covers lots of nutes in 1. Most good grow&bloom will have micro nutes which are very important for autos more so than photos. Try keep it as simple as you can. PH can be a tricky enough thing to get right in DWC and seaweed and all those things mixed with high 02 water, I really don't think they'll be any benefit other than causing nute lock and so on. Keep it simple DWC will take care of itself. These things you are talking about work best in warm substrates dunno how well they work in DWC but all I know is there is much easier ways to make good bactira in your tank. I know I'll be dropping a lot of my AN line and switching to a lot more simp nutes, and a lot less in cost also. Good luck happy growing.
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Hydro_guy
Hydro_guyweek 3
@Ultraviolet ty you're a wealth of info! 🙂
Hydro_guy
Hydro_guyweek 3
My roots look great, they're pure white. I'm currently @ 825ppm and this morning they looked better. These are my parameters: Temp: 75° RH: 65% Lights: two SF7000 @ 100% and 27 inches
Hydro_guy
Hydro_guyweek 6
So it's Apr 6th and my plants are doing alot better. I had to up the nutes, that's what was the problem. Currently we're at 1850 ppm. They were under nourished. My cal/mag this week was upped to 7.5mL/gal and I went full on with grow, micro and bloom, 10mL, 10mL and 5mL respectively. I wasn't frying my plants, they actually needed more food! Lesson learned, listen to your plants.
Hydro_guy
Hydro_guyweek 4
OK so two days ago (3/18) I upped my nutes to 1300ppm, not good, bc I started getting nute burn. It stayed like that til yesterday when I dropped the ppm to 1000 (3/19/22) and now they're starting to show some vigorous growing.
Hydro_guy
Hydro_guyweek 4
OK so it's 2 days since I did my flush and added nuts. And I'm happy the report that they're doing alot better, so I decided to top my girls. Two of them I wasn't able to top yet bc they're still too small...
Hydro_guy
Hydro_guyweek 4
So I'm happy to say the flush and new nuts is what my girls needed. They were definitely underfed and needed a higher ppm concentration. Currently I'm at 880ppm.
Hydro_guy
Hydro_guyweek 3
Thanks guys for your help. I'm currently flushing them for 24 hours then I'll start fresh. I'm using RO/DI water. First I plan on adding cal/mag till my ppm is around 150-200, then add the other nuts to bring me to around 550 ppm. Does that sound right?
ClaireCrystal
ClaireCrystalweek 2
Good luck!🍀🌱
Hydro_guy
Hydro_guy
@ClaireCrystal,thanks much appreciated!
Godesskat
Godesskatweek 2
WORK HARD💪 STAY HIGH🔥 HOPE GOOD LUCK💚
Hydro_guy
Hydro_guy
@Godesskat,thanks bro!
Kynareth
Kynarethweek 1
hope big buds mate
Hydro_guy
Hydro_guy
@Kynareth, thanks man!
love_2_grow
love_2_growweek 1
Happy Growing, Buddy! 🌱🌱🌱
Hydro_guy
Hydro_guy
@love_2_grow, thanks bro!
Kush_queen
Kush_queenweek 16
Looking good in there 🙏 💚
Ezzjaybruh
Ezzjaybruhweek 3
I personally think you need to up your base nutrients there amigo. I’d be running like 2 ml/gallon of each of the flora trio, and maybe tone down the diamond nectar and other one. Depending on water source maybe some cal mag supplement. But overall the .6 ml per gallon is not enough this far in growth. I use flora trio with DWC. Oh and yes, once those roots are out the cup or rockwool, give it a few inches between of air. Good luck!
LegacyMarketFarm
LegacyMarketFarmweek 5
How far bellow the bottom of the net pot was the water line ? You want it a good 2-3 inches to just spit up water from the air stones to tickle the roots down into the water. This slow veg maybe makes me think the water was touching the bottom of the net pots ? Just curious friend. I grew in hydro under-current built my own systems for 3 years before going back to soil & the veg rate on them is a million times faster than soil they should be giant with that long of veg. Would you be alright with me offering some pointers? So cannabis plants LOVE heat and humidity. It is the buds that hate it. In veg we want to take advantage of this fact to help our plants grow along much quicker and more vigorously. In veg we can look for temps of 79-84 MAX with lights on & no more than 9 degrees less with lights off. If we allow for too much temperature swing between lights on and lights off while the plant is still growing vertically up to day 20 of flower, We will cause the plant to stretch ALOT which we do not want. So in veg & early flower, Keeping our temperature gaps nice and close between lights on and off is key. Utilizing humidity in our rooms during veg will also help out a lot with more rapid growth but we must introduce it properly. In our rooms we have our temperature and humidity set-points, But when we combine those 2 it forms a third set-point which is the most important & that is called VPD, Vapor pressure deficit. I strongly recommend every new grower or old grower who has not learned it yet, To study and understand it & implement it into your room, Logging your numbers daily. https://cerescann.com/importance-of-measuring-vpd/ For soil, We generally want to go for a PH of 6.1. Your PH is GREAT for hydro, So kudos on that. This website does a GREAT job of illustrating it with a nice graph & very good detailed explanation for soil. https://autoflowerseedshop.com/cannabis-ph-chart-guide/ As we briefly touched on before, During veg & early flower we want our temperature gap's nice and tight to avoid stretch. Why exactly our plants stretch in response to this is a genetic trigger being activated by the environmental stress essentially telling the plant the end of the season is closer than it really is. In veg & early flower the plant is still in its first stage of development which is to grow up wide and tall so when it produces seed, It can cast them out nicely. Remember, Whether we are growing our plants for seed or bud their genetic responses do not change as they gh sidedo not know any different. Once the plant has finished that first stage of growth by weeks 4-6 of flower with most strains, It is by day 20 of flower. Autoflowers you have to watch for it, But once the plant has finished this goal its new mission is to focus 100% on producing nice big flower clusters & to get very sticky so it can attract pollen to it successfully. So once that vertical growth is finished, We actually now want to begin to expose our plants to larger temperature swings between lights on and lights off. This will help activate that genetic response and allow us to draw out the most potential from the strain utilizing the plants genetic triggers to environmental stresses at the right times. We can also take this a step further with doing light deprivation in the last 2 weeks using less light to simulate cloud cover. Very cold feed temps on the last flush is very good too. If you do not have them already, Get yourself a good PAR meter & thermal laser temp gun to monitor your plant top temperatures & optimize how much light your plants are getting. Since you are right at the start of the journey, I recommend hoping over to our youtube and checking out our VERY detailed tutorial series. The first 6 episodes are out right now covering all the fundamentals & first 4 weeks of plant life care. Episode 7 will be out shortly so you got time to subscribe & get caught up, I look forward to seeing you over there friend! Also we have a tutorial series grow diary that is also part of the whole package. Our youtube is linked off of our main grow diaries profile! Happy growing friend!
Hydro_guy
Hydro_guyweek 21
So alot of the leaves have turned yellow and trichomes have started turning amber.
Hydro_guy
Hydro_guyweek 3
OK here's today's update, 3/9/22. They are all doing great, they're all standing proud now! I think they needed to dry out a little, more light and needed the extra nuts.