What do the do against yellow weed leaves and stress?
Yellow leaves that burn afterwards often mean an excess of food and that is easy to solve. Just rinse for a few days with ordinary taps of water and then they will recover.
But this did not help and it only got worse, stress and yellow purple leaves with white spots.
Shocking and worrying. The largest leaves first turned light yellow and started to droop, then large yellow spots appeared in them. And then they burn. It seems to be more common for large leaves to be shed when they start flowering, but this was more than that.
The whole plants started to turn yellow and I was really worried, I thought there goes my harvest again. Some plants also turned completely purple.
This kind of problem is always very difficult to say what it is now and afterwards what it was and what really helped. My thought first went to switching to other foods. I started googling that B'cuzz food and it turns out that there are also some basic nutrients missing. I then got a bag of regular fertilizer containing all the basic nutrients, eurosolids NPK 12-10-18 Arm. First tried on 1 plant and with good results. This plant turned a beautiful dark green again within a day or three. Then I added to all the plants and they all recovered fairly well. But yes, before I had come to the idea of that fertilizer, of course, a lot of damage had been done.
What is PH and EC and why measure PH and EC? (How to measure PH and EC? You can google that yourself, it's full of it)
PH is an acid or base measurement measured on a scale of 1 is max acid, between 7 and 8 is neutral, and 12 is max base. From what I know, plants mainly like a somewhat acidic soil, is what farmers actually do with spreading manure over the countries. At a certain PH value, plants absorb certain nutrients best and with cannabis plants I fluctuate around PH 6, between PH 5.7 and PH 6.3, they say that young plants like nice and acidic, maybe PH 5.6, but then you are on the edge. And how accurate is your PH meter, so risky.
So I also started feeding with PH and EC measurements again so that I am certainly well. PH around 6 and EC around 1.8 (1.8 would be good for a Sativa dominant strain) kept all this time. I had sometimes understood that measuring PH and EC would not really be necessary if you grow on soil and then also outside, but to be 100% sure you can do it better. Occasionally a little rinsing and also EC measured off the ground to see if it dropped. Somewhat adapted to the diet, with the B'cuzz bloom and Canna Flores the EC value to 1.5, and then to the 1.8 with Aptus Topbooster. Then with PH acidification to PH 5.9/6.3. And the summits went like a rocket after this, some became really rock hard. What it really was I do not know exactly, the potting soil will also have come around this time without nutrients. I think it was initially 1 of the basic nutrients. But by working with PH and EC it certainly became much better.
The plants became really thick and dense, on which I thought more sunlight is always better. I then moved them a bit and tried to spread them out in my garden so that more light could come in. I'm afraid I shouldn't have done this either. 3 plants got stressed and wanted to grow again, these 3 I was also able to write off. So also learned from this, autoflowers move as little as possible.
Nice job. I had a similar experience trying to grow lots of autos…seems like more can go wrong with autos, more liable to be stunted by a cold overnight temperature, etc. Cheers.
@Northern_Ent, yes autoflowers are very stress sensitive. Even moving the plant to another spot in the garden during flowering felt like stress was my thoughts.