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First Grow with Mephisto Autos

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2311
5 years ago
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Grow Conditions
Week 3
Vegetation
20.32
cm
inch
Height
20 hrs
Light Schedule
12+ conditions after
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Nutrients
ml/l
ml/gal
tsp/gal
4+ nutrients after
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Grow Technique Usage
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Technique
Commented by
agricola agricola
5 years ago
A lot happened over the week. I did a res change with freshly prepared nutrient solution. After 2 days, I added Orca (mycorrhizae), to see if I could encourage some better root growth. The results were disastrous! A few hours after adding the Orca, I noticed orange foam and root rot. I immediately pulled the plants from their buckets and rinsed their roots out. I went out and got Hydroguard and added 2ml/gal (~50ml). At this point, I figured my babies were goners as the root rot looked very serious to my newb eyes. Some of the grow experts here agreed, but I just couldn't pull the trigger. What can I say, these ladies are growing on me. Well, a few days later, and the root rot didn't seem to come back. I dosed with hydroguard again yesterday (Sunday, 16th) and refilled the res with RO water and nothing else. PPMs are steady @ 600. Now, why the root rot? I believe I made several mistakes, but obviously I can't be sure what the root cause was. Here are the things I know I did wrong: 1. I allowed the water temps to rise because of the LED and long light cycle. Water circulation hid this from me initially, as it spread the heating over days, but slowly temps rose enough to (obviously) allow fungal growth. 2. The res change may have stressed the roots and allowed fungus to take hold. Perhaps I should not res change until later next time (week 3/4). 3. I filled the system more than I think I should have. Some of the roots had been used to being in the air, and I may have drowned them providing plant material for nasties to feed on. 4. Adding the Orca seemed to be a trigger. I'm not fully versed on sterile vs non-sterile setups, and I think I committed a cardinal sin of mixing the two approaches. Some other things I did: 1. I got a HOBO monitor for heat and light and stuck it into a grow site bucket. It sits just below the surface of the water, and has been measuring temps pretty high (mid 70's) while a direct measure in the res shows temps around 68. It appears that heat from the lights is able to create a significant difference in temp in the top inch or two of the buckets. The light detection was used to test whether putting something between the plant and the clay pellets/basket would reduce the amount of light hitting the surface of the water. The difference was negligible. 2. I swapped out the purple LED I was using with a Spider Farmer SF-1000. Wow, what a difference! The last two days of data I uploaded as pictures to this diary show the temp impact. Before the swap, my ventilation wasn't able to keep the temp steady, so I'd see temps in the mid to low 80's after several hours of light cycle. With the new lights, I can easily hold the temp where I want it which is 77. The difference is stark in the temp chart, and I'm super pleased! Temperature in the bucket (under ~1 inch of water) also is measuring lower (low 70's). 3. I've ordered a small water chiller which is not yet arrived. 4. I've prepared freezer packs to drop into my res if necessary. Despite the good advice I've gotten, I think I'm going to see these ladies through until the end. I believe I've set myself up for ongoing struggles, but the ladies appear to have bounced back with a bunch of new and healthy looking growth. The outcome will be sub-optimal, but I think it's worth going end-to-end if only to get some experience in the later stages and to be sure my setup can handle smell/drying/etc.
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Grow Questions
agricola
agricolastarted grow question 5 years ago
I believe I have a case of root rot. Pic attached. I just added Orca in the morning, and noticed orange foam and these roots literally hours later. Water was still under 70 from the res change sunday afternoon. Currently 68. I rinsed in tap, they look a little better. ;(
Solved
Roots. Color - Brown
1 like
Grey_Wolf
Grey_Wolfanswered grow question 5 years ago
@agricola Hi mate yes that is root rot and is more than liely caused from your nutrient solution being too warm When I grow with DWC I like to keep mine at around 17-18c as this keeps the plant happy as well as inhibiting the bad rot fom growing It can also act as a buffer if you have a slight temp spike it won't go into the danger zone but if you keep your res warmer than say 19 you run the risk of rot if it wanders higher over time . Also what is orca? is it organic? Dont mix organic with synthetics in hydro it rarely ends well
agricola
agricolastarted grow question 5 years ago
Is it better to start flushing too early, or too late? I'm going for the most sativa effects I can, which leads me to believe I want as much cloudy and as few amber trichomes as possible. Also leads me to think that "too early" is the better mistake to make.
Solved
Buds. Other
like
HiddenColorado
HiddenColoradoanswered grow question 5 years ago
Would start flushing now, but I would be checking trichomes about 4 inches down from top to get the average. I made the mistake once checking top trichomes. I thought the plant was ready but in reality it had 2 more weeks
agricola
agricolastarted grow question 5 years ago
My ghost nug grew up on the side of the tent blocked from light. She has trichs, looks super light yellow (see pics). My question is, wouldn't this be desirable? Less chlorophyll to wait on before smoking? Has anyone tried to maybe light deprive parts of their colas?
Solved
Buds. Other
Setup. Lighting
Techniques. Other
like
MadeInGermany
MadeInGermanyanswered grow question 5 years ago
hi buddy the chlorophile evaporates when drying and fermenting :-) you will see that as soon as the green breaks down from the bloom ;-)
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MadeInGermany
MadeInGermanycommentedweek 85 years ago
Nice plant :-) big roots 😎
MadeInGermany
MadeInGermanycommented5 years ago
@agricola,many Thanks bro 🙏🏻
agricola
agricolacommented5 years ago
@MadeInGermany, Thanks! Next time around, I'm going to do way better :). Your pictures are pretty awesome. I wish I could rotate my setup and take video like you do, it looks great!
HiddenColorado
HiddenColoradocommentedweek 95 years ago
It is also rare for a photoperiod to be ready in 5 weeks the normal and average is 7 weeks. Good luck from Colorado
agricola
agricolacommented5 years ago
@@HiddenColorado Ah yes, I need to put into the title that these are autos! I believe Mephisto only does autos? I went and charted out ~40 diaries of the closest mephisto strains to their Super Orange Haze (not many diaries for this strain) and the average chop time was about 11 weeks. I found a grower on the forums that had run these genetics twice, and their chop times were totally different. One was day 92 and the. other was I think day 70 (IIRC). These ladies drive me crazy and I end up spending hours trying to divine some formula on how to treat them perfectly... but it all may as well be voodoo to me at this point. 😂
HiddenColorado
HiddenColoradocommentedweek 85 years ago
After going back and looking at week 8 I would say they have 3 to 4 weeks left. Week 9 being one of the weeks. I would harvest between week 11 and 12.
agricola
agricolacommented5 years ago
@@HiddenColorado Thanks, after reading on this for days, I think you (and many others) are right and that I should feed the girls for at least another 1-1.5 weeks and reevaluate then. <3
MarsHydroLED
MarsHydroLEDcommentedweek 95 years ago
Beautiful! 👍🙌
agricola
agricolacommented5 years ago
@MarsHydroLED Thanks! Your light has been powering the Super Orange Haze for most of her life now, and it's helping to produce a great result so far :).
Ginger_gnome
Ginger_gnomecommentedweek 105 years ago
man those look like there going to be some tasty buds when your done. Good job.