Well, i really like seeing how they grow naturally. I may remove a leaf up top if it is blocking growth below, but otherwise the plants have grown au naturale.
#1 still isn't showing many trichomes, but that is only correlated to potency, so i'm not so worried by that alone. Vertical growth finally stopped end of last week or this week. One more measurement will verify that feeling in a few minutes. I'd guess this one is slightly behind in development compared to #2.
She's a beaut, that #2. Starting to look sexy, so i took some macro shots this week. Some minor light damage up top, but that is inevitable due to different plant heights. See some initial coloration of a rare pistill.
#3 is quickly catchign up. Terminal tufts are thicking up, but still jsut hairs.
Back to .9g per gallon with epsom salt. I've done this before.. reduce it and see issues. I like to bank my head against the same wall over and over again at times. Also, may drop Cal-Nitrate further. While the leaves are not overtly glossy, they are more lush than i prefer. I'd like to get a slightly lighter shade of green than what i have now.
Very rare and minor tip yellowing here and there. Again, gotta keep an eye on that for any progression. I feed a very light and well-balanced mix. It is the same mix i use on photoperiods. So, all that nonsense that autoflowers need less? If you feed photos too much, you likely need to reduce for autoflowers, i'd guess, otherwise it's not true and proof is in the pudding above. Very healthy plants.. maybe pushing edge slightly... but no more than a ~5% difference from a photoperiod diet.
Check out the "G"ermination week for more info on light.
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About Lights (Portion copy and pasted from Germination week comment)
Hello, folks...
This light was sent to me by ViparSpectra. It looks like an excellent light for the price point. They used the most efficient 'white' LED diodes (LM301). They come in both 3000K and 5000K varieties. The average is around 3600K, so it should do you well in both vegetative phase and bloom phase. The 5000k will promot branching early and 3000k will promote bud development late. It also includes diodes for 660nm and 760nm wavelengths (far red and infrared). Meanwell drivers are a well known brand with good efficiency. It has a quality heatsink, too. This is an excellent light that can take you from seed to harvest and produce high quality buds.
8% Coupon Code - XSNobodyBud
Note, my screen name is slightly different. Use any code you find for that matter. There are several out there. There are no commissions invovled with this particular code, but I did receive a free light. Nonetheless, I'm an honest guy about this stuff.
Amazon US:
XS1500 https://amzn.to/3aD5ef2
XS2000 https://amzn.to/3iVUU4J
XS4000 https://amzn.to/324iXaV
Amazon CA:
XS1500 https://amzn.to/31cdHml
XS2000 https://amzn.to/3halyGw
XS4000 https://amzn.to/32kJzVp
Official Website: https://www.viparspectra.com
How to use the light based on its specs: See germination week for more information. An effort to shorten these posts.
Look forward to this diary should be very interesting. I’m wanting to run some auto asked fastbuds but they avoided the question and tried to get me to sign up for some thing to try make them sales
@@NobodysBuds,oh I know mate a bit of miss communication lol this is autos I was just saying I want to do some from fast buds didn’t mean these were fast buds my bad my terrible writing try to bare with me
Hola, últimamente he cambiado mi concepto de riegos con macetas de tela y otras similares, ahora las mantengo más húmedas y alterno muchos riegos suaves para disolver el exceso de nutrientes en el sustrato y mantener muy funcional todo el sistema radicular, apoyando la movilidad de las raíces con sustratos ligeros y porosos y con microorganismos. Mi objetivo es poblar completamente de raíces la maceta definitiva, en las más o menos 3 semanas de crecimiento vegetativo. También para mi la única espera larga para el siguiente riego es después del primer riego profundo desde el trasplante, aproximadamente una semana para maceta cuadrada old scholl, 4 días para las de tela y 5 días para las air-pot.
El mayor riesgo que le veo a la humedad es que esté parada en la maceta mucho tiempo, es que pierde el oxígeno, y creo que sólo por el mero hecho de disponer de macetas de tela o aireadas no es suficiente, la costumbre de dejar secar mucho el sustrato, antes del siguiente riego, aduciendo que así se oxigena, para mi tiene varias inconvenientes: la escasa humedad afecta a la vida de los microorganismos y las pequeñas raíces adventicias; la movilidad del oxígeno en capas profundas del sustrato se consigue con agua muy oxigenada... yo ahora estoy calculando la cantidad de riego inicial en maceta, multiplicando por 3 la media del consumo diario, dejando consumir dos partes y regando de nuevo, me va bien.
Disculpas si me extendido o aburrido... fumo mucho!! Saludos 👊
@Ned_Grows, estoy totalmente de acuerdo que el entorno influye en la materia prima, animal o vegetal, a la hora de crear fertilizantes orgánicos y en relación a los metales pesados que mencionas, en mi caso, busco fuentes donde no haya tocado el hombre, vivo en un entorno natural sin polución y procuro proveerme de materia prima virgen, empezando por el agua de riego. De todos modos, yo no tengo datos al respecto.
Los fertilizantes de síntesis química se basan en sales minerales y además sus costos de producción con relación también al medio ambiente son poco sostenibles. Mi concepto de cultivo se basa principalmente en la acción de los microorganismos del sustrato imitando al bosque, sin renunciar a la tecnología y dado que queremos la máxima producción para nuestros cultivos, elaboro mis propios fertilizantes solubles con materia prima que tengo cerca, algunos bastante complejos, de esta manera además, me independizo de la industria y me entretiene mucho.
Yo creo que las plantas necesitan de todos los minerales de la tabla periódica, aunque sea sólo una pequeña presencia de muchos de ellos, creo también, que en cuanto más variedad de minerales contiene un ser vivo más posibilidades de evolucionar tiene y más complejo es... al final las plantas son los minerales animados. La industria agro química ha simplificado mucho el tema de la fertilización y prácticamente distribuye nutrientes básicos nada más: NPK, Ca, Mg, Fe, Si... y poco más.
@deFharo, There appears to be a misconception that inorganic or synthetic fertilizers contain higher levels of heavy metals than organic fertilizers. In my experience, this is most often not the case. First off, it is important to state that pretty much all fertilizers will have some amount of heavy metals. Even if the amounts are below the minimum detection level of the analysis, there are likely still trace amounts present. What I’ve noticed is that granular organic fertilizer products will, more often than not, have higher levels of heavy metals and generally higher levels than their liquid organic counterparts. On the other end of the spectrum, the water-soluble and concentrated liquid inorganic or synthetic fertilizers almost always have the lowest amounts of heavy metals with many clocking it at the non-detectable level.
The reason for these differences is the source. The granular organic fertilizers that are derived from animal matter tend to have the highest levels. This is likely linked to the type of diet they consume. Plant-based organic fertilizers come in next in regard to heavy metals. The levels will vary depending on the plant because not all plants take in metals in the same amounts. I think almost anyone would be surprised at the arsenic levels of a standard sea kelp extract. Basically, anything that is alive and consuming food and nutrients from the surrounding environment will begin to accumulate heavy metals. This is all very natural.
On the other hand, inorganic or synthetic fertilizers usually come from specifically mined mineral sources where heavy metals are found in much smaller amounts. The levels found in these fertilizers are often a direct reflection of the purity of the mineral source. Food and pharmaceutical-grade inorganic minerals have a much higher purity level than cheaply-mined sources and such quality will come at a price but the difference will be extremely noticeable. In turn, they will be more soluble in water and have better uptake into plant roots. It is also important to keep in mind that some heavy metals, such as zinc and manganese, are essential plant nutrients as well.
Feel same with autos , but still will do two mass grows just to use all seeds away and for Heather not to be mad ;))
Till i started to preload epsom salt to soil and use calmag during flower even if they look , that they don't need it i bumped up into troubles, LEDs are very calmag burning out stuff.
@@NobodysBuds, i used peroxide bath, soda bath , natural lemon juice bath and pure water last, even bud rot that i missed , dryout perfectly without infecting other buds. I use it for two years in a row for my outdoor grow, heavy smokers were noticing smoothness of smoke the most, maybe its mold spors in air you can smell ? In my youth in soviet union we had sulphur smoke "granades" to disinfect greenhouses, that was wiping PM any bug or any fungus, toxic tho, google maybe there is morden days alternative.
My caravan was having mold issues in grow room till i started never cool him down, dry air helped to sort shit in area. Still took couple years and only third reinstallement and tent helped to sort it out.
@@NobodysBuds, you will see how smooth taste is after peroxide, you loose smell, but no harshness at all pays it off. Should be not bad , especially if its back up "in case" only ;)))
@@@NobodysBuds, Here in Russia I have such benefit as broken... electricity consumption meter, or how you call them... Energy supplier company does not care and I pay fixed around $12 monthly and don't care. I actually thought of replacing my TS 600 by TS 1000, which is also 150 W and 22000 lumen. And with dimming it could be even ok. And yes, It is suitable for more space, so I will leave it as is.