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First Grow, DWC NightOwl Heartbreaker

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2904
3 years ago
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10
Grow Conditions
Week 6
Flowering
73.66
cm
inch
Height
20 hrs
Light Schedule
12+ conditions after
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Nutrients
ml/l
ml/gal
tsp/gal
3+ nutrients after
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Grow Technique Usage
ScrOG
Technique
Defoliation
Technique
Commented by
MyWeedAccount MyWeedAccount
3 years ago
4/13 - Another week already! Did a res change today, and I need to come up with a better system/process. B/c of the setup, I had to use my electric siphon pump, but that was sucking up some of the roots as well (the root balls are huge!). The spigot the cooler comes with is handy for quick samples without disturbing the plants, but trying to empty the reservoir like that SUCKS b/c it is too slow and you have to hold it down the entire time. RDWC is becoming more and more enticing. I will likely have to start topping off instead of draining if I want to maintain the Scrog. That will probably happen anyway due to how fast they are drinking. I'm still ideating over the ATO system...it's insane how complicated hydrostatics is. It's also funny to me that growing can be as simple or as complicated as you make it...guess which camp I'm in. There is definitely a noticeable smell, but not so much that I need to put the carbon filter in yet. My SO says they smell like lemony BO 😂 * POST RES CHANGE * Heather: 860 ppm 5.78 pH 61.8 F water temp Helen: 860 ppm 5.75 pH 63.5 F water temp 4/15 - Things are going steady so far. Since they're drinking at least 1/2 gallon to 3/4 gallon a day now, I topped them off earlier with some diluted leftover nutes from 4/13. This was needed since Heather's ppm shot way up (I'm thinking it's from some of the dead roots that I wasn't able to clean yet). After adding back, the ppms are both looking good and where I want them. I'm not seeing any resin yet on the leaves. Good news everyone! I believe I have found a much simpler way to solve both my vacation and res change challenges! I'm going to set up a separate reservoir to each cooler (I've already bought 2 more igloo coolers, $22 at my local walmart), and have a pipe/tube connecting them at the bottom. The igloo cooler spigot is removable (thank god), so I don't need to make any cuts in the coolers. I'm planning on attaching a ball valve faucet instead of the spigot. At the end, it should looks something very similar to this person's setup, but with coolers: https://support.ilovegrowingmarijuana.com/t/single-bucket-dwc-mods/41783 It's been a fun rabbit hole researching. I learned an insane amount about hydrostatics and did a few of my own science experiments (this was a fun one - https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/diy-gravity-auto-top-off.376602/), but in the end, I realized that the amount of trial and error to set up a gravity-fed siphon ATO is too much of a hassle, and using solenoid valves + float switches become too complex when needing to design backups if any of those fails (being in the tech field, it's a rule that things fail all the time). I also learned that DWC growing has A LOT of overlap with reef aquariums and home brewing, which I now know more about than ever. I'm planning to go to Home Depot in the next few days to start putting the extra reservoir together. It should make res changes 420% easier, and reduce the frequency of res changes by half. 4/16 - Ladies still looking pretty good (added new grow cam pic to show the tent coverage from the inside). I've weaved some of the larger stems into the trellis a bit more to give more light to the small ones in the middle. Heather's ppm keeps shooting up, but Helen is staying stable. I'm topping off later tonight with a lower dose of nutes until next week. Really excited to upgrade my system to have ball valves to make draining easier, and the extra res to make my life easier. Still no noticeable trichs or resin on the leaves yet. Can you tell I got yet another new dehumidifier? I think this is the one! 4/19 - Things have been going well so far. Ladies are still drinking a crazy amount every day, and I just added some more back (light nute dosage until the next round). The growth through the trellis has been pretty incredible. It's funny to think how nervous I was just a couple weeks ago when I thought I stunted them early on. The flowering stretch is REAL! I did a good amount of defoliation today on both plants (see pics). I removed about 1/3rd (probably less) of the lower fan leaves, and some of the lower bud sites that I could see would not be able to develop due to the canopy blocking the light. I probably should have been doing this a bit earlier on, but you live and you learn! Hopefully, the parts come soon so I can take it easy on mixing nutes every few days! ------ Thanks for following 🤙 Always, appreciative of tips or suggestions
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Grow Questions
MyWeedAccount
MyWeedAccountstarted grow question 3 years ago
They look overwatered, but this is DWC and I'm not top-feeding. Not sure what is going on as the leaves, themselves, look a healthy color. Pics from 3/25 show this, and I have detailed info in my diary. I have tried dropping humidity down (was keeping up for VPD). Thanks
Solved
Leaves. Curl down
1 like
Ganjagrandaddy
Ganjagrandaddyanswered grow question 3 years ago
dont panic at alol. those roots look great so thats a good sign. if the strain has an inica lean then the leave can be like cabbage leaves sometimes. they take a lot to hold up in the warm air too. all looks good from here buddy. roots will keep you posted. below will go 1st and the tops will be behind in time with resonding so keep those roots happy an the rest will be good. you have all the right stuff in there and hydroguard will keep the res happy too. good luck
MyWeedAccount
MyWeedAccountstarted grow question 3 years ago
Unfortunately, I can only write so much here, but I have a lot more details in my grow diary. The droopiness started about 3-4 days ago, but now has started showing deficiencies in the leaves, and plants seem stunted on height. Day 19 since sprout.
Solved
Leaves. Curl down
Leaves. Color - Mottling
Plant. Too short
like
Organoman
Organomananswered grow question 3 years ago
Two things come to mind... 1) nutrients too strong and 2) the biggie, 24 hour light! Your poor baby plants are simply exhausted. Nothing on Planet Earth has ever evolved to live in constant state of activity and without some sort of "sleep" every 24 hours. Changing to an optimum lighting schedule for all cannabis plants, autos or photoperiod plants in veg, of 18/6 will see them recover and return to full health once again. Your plants will grow faster, healthier and stronger at 18/6 than at 24/0 due to the fact they are getting the "sleep" they need for a healthy and balanced metabolism. 24 hour light can only be recommended by people who either don't care about their plants or do not understand the basics of how plants function and grow. Part of a plants functioning is "sleep", without it a plant will go haywire waiting endlessly for a rest that will never come. This is bordering on plant cruelty, but is never too late to change to a normal and healthy 18/6 light dark schedule. I like to think of the 6 hours of "sleep" as 2 hours to recover from the day, 2 hours to rest and 2 hours to get ready for the day ahead and this is basically what occurs during the dark cycle. Sleep deprivation is a common torture technique for good reason, it drives people nuts, no doubt your little plants feel the same! Besides, cannabis can only grow so much during any 24 hour hour period and this growth tops out at about 18 hours, meaning running your lights any longer than 18 hours is basically a waste of electricity. The 18/6 light dark schedule has been derived at through over 80 years of dedicated cannabis research and is not a random number, but a scientific fact. Treat your plants to the sleep they NEED and everything should go back on track with normal growth and a natural circadian rhythm. Lord knows every living thing needs one. The small blotches at the end of the leaves are damage caused by the leaves hitting the side of the pot repeatedly when the fans blow on them and is of little consequence. Also, make sure your nutrient solution is not getting too warm, this can cause your plants to droop as well. Hope this helps, and help your plants, they NEED "sleepy time"! Cheers,............ Organoman.
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StunFlower
StunFlowerweek 6
Your plants look lovely. Sorry to hear about your rez change issues - I know first-hand it can be a pain when you ScrOG with DWC. I'm currently using a battery powered transfer pump that works really well - I haven't had significant issues with it sucking up roots; it's a stick styled pump and as long as I get it situated so it's sitting at the bottom of the bucket all is good. All the best with the rest of your grow 👍
MyWeedAccount
MyWeedAccount
@StunFlower, thanks! I'm hoping it works out as well as I think it will. My plan is to add camlocks (very similar to this person's setup https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Make-a-Mash-Tun-for-Brewing-All-grain-Beer/ ) to make detaching super easy. It's not the cheapest solution, but I don't mind paying more for quality and convenience. Just ordered the parts from the same place in that article, so hopefully should be able to get things set up in the next week or two. Stay tuned!
StunFlower
StunFlower
@MyWeedAccount, Your reservoir solution looks intriguing. I'll be watching that with interest. The vacation challenge is real - I'm still a slave to my buckets; I have to schedule getaways between runs 😂
MyWeedAccount
MyWeedAccount
@StunFlower, thanks friend! It was probably a bit ambitious of me to try ScrOG with DWC for my first grow, but I was just too excited to try all the techniques haha The good news is that I think I've come up with a simple solution to both my res change and vacation challenge -- I bought two more 5-gallon coolers, and I'm going to set them up as a reservoir for each DWC bucket (still DWC, not recirculating...yet). Very similar to this guy's build: https://support.ilovegrowingmarijuana.com/t/single-bucket-dwc-mods/41783. Cheers!
Ferenc
Ferencweek 11
Happy Flowering @MyWeedAccount
Waylate
Waylateweek 7
Ace grow to you
y0shimitsu
y0shimitsuweek 7
Great job man 🙌🏻 thanks for sharing 🙏🏻 enjoy 💚🌱
Waylate
Waylateweek 8
Looks awesome your doing a real good job
Waylate
Waylate
@MyWeedAccount, thank you and all the best to you
MyWeedAccount
MyWeedAccount
@@Waylate, thanks 🙏 !! I saw you just started a new grow, all the best!
steadfast_grower
steadfast_growerweek 8
Nice job on the camlocks. A couple of quick thoughts: I use NPT to barbed connections on my RDWC drain lines. Maybe an NPT to barbed fitting would help. I'm sure the brewing industry may have something if type b to barbed fitting is available. Then you could just run your drain hose to a shower or sink drain. Another thought about sealing any leaks, check out Aquaseal which a flexible premium silicone product. You can grab a big tube of it off ebay for about 20 bucks and is commonly used for marine and fishing applications. PPM: It was hard to tell from the wording if they were eating 500pms a week or staying at 500pm. If PPMs stay the same and the water is dropping, I'd say they are eating and drinking at the same rate which is ideal. Mine are eating 100pms per day and I am now trying to increase nutrients until they level out and eat/drink at same rate. Regarding humidity: I'd take your dehumidifier from outside the tent and put it inside the tent if you have room. Then I'd suggest an Inkbird humidity controller and hook your humidifier and dehumidifier up to the controller and set the value you want. Keep your exhaust fan on a constant low setting. Another way is to bring up the temp during which squashes the humidity or bring in cooler dry air from outside the temp using an AC in the room your tent resides. The trick is to tune your room to work in balance with what you need in the tent. I have a few minutes available atm so I'll elaborate on humidity and what works for me. I just switched out my equipment for flowering a few days ago and here is what works for me as I have multiple tents in one room. My room is 40% RH and 68f because I have an AC running in the room which is also cooling my RDWC reservoir outside the tent. A couple of days ago, I added a dehumidifier to the tent and I added an active intake fan to the tent to bring that cool dry air into the tent from the room on a low constant setting. Lights on: The tent sits at 77F if I leave the exhaust fan on a low setting but can dial in higher temps if I run the exhaust fan intermittently. The heat is produced solely by the lights. The Inkbird controller mainly runs the humidifier during the day to hit my 60% RH I've set for preflower because I'm constantly pulling in my 40% RH from the room on low setting. As I get later into flower and want to drop the RH and temp more, I'll just adjust the Inkbird controller and turn my exhaust fan and intake up a bit more. Lights off (7am to 11am): When lights go out, the plants transpire heavily as the temp drops. Lights off temp would go down to 64f without any heat source which is too much of a temperature swing IMHO. The dehumidifier provides some minor heating and dehumidification during lights out to keep in line with the 50% RH I set on Inkbird controller and a constant low exhaust puts the tent at solid 71F temp with exhaust fan and intake fan on a low setting. If I didn't use an AC outside the tent, my intake air would probably exceed 60% creating an endless cycle of dehumidification. Happy growing!
steadfast_grower
steadfast_grower
@MyWeedAccount, Thanks! I've learned so much this first go at RDWC and I find it rewarding to share the information I've learned on this journey. 1. I'm happy to hear it worked out. 2. I pushed mine way too hard on the week for and dropped it back into the 500's on week 5. Gradually increased since but this week, I chased my PPM. Both water level drops and PPM drops were occurring at fast rates daily. I'd top off in the 750 range would be back down in the low 600's later in the day or the next morning. It seems I finally stabilized it yesterday by bumping it up about 150 to 830 with a blend of grow and flower nutrients. It depends on the nutrient brand, but yeah, you will typically want to be close to 900+ for mid flower. Are you seeing any deficiencies? I'd suggest trying to bump it up gradually throughout the week a couple of 150-200ppm and see how they respond. Now is the time to add any flower additives if desired. I'm keeping my nutrients simple for this first run so only a couple of flower additives 3. The humidifier will surely work out for you especially with the Inkbird controller. Just do what you can for now and watch any leaves you have tucked for wet spots. Have fun!
MyWeedAccount
MyWeedAccount
@steadfast_grower, I wish I could give you more than just "a like" on this thing. The amount of info and tips you've given me has been invaluable! To address your points: 1. I'm not patient lol and I bought some Gorilla glue silicone caulk and put it on the other night -- so far, so good! I will definitely look into the one you mentioned if this fails for any reason. I had actually bought the NPT to barbed connection just in case, but I was able to fit the silicone tubes with a tube extender tool (and I'm adding hose clamps). 2. I'll try to word the ppm phrasing better. The past week the ppm generally rose up by 30-50 ppm per day (sometimes more), so I would steadily decrease the ppm by diluting with more water. I was pushing them before near 800 ppm until I saw slight nute burn, but ever since then, they've only wanted less. I'm at the ~500 ppm mark now, and that seems to be where they want it. I'm just wondering if this is too low for being a month into flowering (not that there's much I should do about it if that's what the plants want)? Typically, I see people using at least 800-1100 ppm in flower 3. Unfortunately, the 70 pint dehumidifier won't fit in the tent, but I do have a smaller one in there. I just purchased a more compact 50 pint unit to put in the tent as well. I do have an inkbird humidity controller set up for the dehumidifier, but it's not even needed b/c I have to keep the dehumidifier continuously on anyway. The humidity outside the tent is slightly below 40%, and I have my exhaust fan on full to bring in the lower humidity and remove the high humidity (+ airflow). The new humidifier gets here next Wednesday, so hopefully that will help, and in the meantime, I'll probably just keep the tent open with the mosquito net. I have quite a bit of airflow in the tent, so I'm hoping that combats the high humidity for now. Thanks again for all the advice, as always!
StunFlower
StunFlowerweek 11
Congrats on the bountiful, frosty harvest 👊
MyWeedAccount
MyWeedAccount
@StunFlower, Thanks!! Just chopped the second last night and it's looking even more bountiful than the first!
steadfast_grower
steadfast_growerweek 3
Couldn't post to your reply to my accidentally deleted message. So I'll add here: PH Meter: I still say calibrate weekly instead of monthly. It is your most important measuring equipment and I couldn't believe my 6.2 reading was actually a 6.6 value after two weeks of use. Light: I've turned up my light more aggressively. I have a singleT5 hanging over each plant for blue spectrum and my HLG 300 v2 RSpec is cranked to 50% as of yesterday (Day 10) at 30" with no signs of curling yet. My goal is to have it 100% by week 3. Then I can start dropping the light 1 inch at a time until they say its enough. My theory is more light, more nutrient uptake. Enzymes: Lots of products. I chose to use the Flying Skull Z9 (Canada) Z7 (USA). It is a two-part solution. Enzyme and bio-safe cleaner which doesn't affect beneficial bacteria but helps keep buckets clean. It will create bubbles for first 12-16 hours, but is minimal by next day as it reduces, salts and other grime. Air: I'm using square EZ store buckets. I have the stone connected to a pump that is dialed down sitting under net pot. The other two stones in my bucket are off to the side of the net pot. to keep oxygen in the root zone but not saturating the net pot. I can see your point, round buckets would be more difficult to add more air without saturating Rapid Rooter. My net pots are the 8" current culture ones which have a riser in the middle which helps keep the RR from becoming to wet. I'm considering going with neoprene collars next round. LST: I would start LST in a few days after they perk back up - nice and gentle, then bend a bit more in a day or two after the first tie down if needed. My Night Owls typically start throwing pistils around day 30-35 so I'd start soon before they stretch. Happy to hear your plants are recovering. Cheers!
MyWeedAccount
MyWeedAccount
@steadfast_grower, Once again, THANK YOU! Super helpful. One thing I'm about to switch up is replacing my insulated lowes buckets with a 5 gallon igloo cooler, which is slightly more narrow and taller to help raise the netpots a bit more. I can't believe I didn't think of this earlier. This will also help with maintaining low water temps, which will boost the level of oxygen in the water. Hoping this takes things to the next level....can't. stop. tinkering. haha Thanks again!
steadfast_grower
steadfast_growerweek 1
If the tap root is poking out, I suggest getting it in the net pot on one layer of pebbles now. You can even poke the root through one of the holes. Then control your air pump so the bubbles are just misting the net pot but not saturating the rapid rooter. I'm also into my first RDWC run with Night Owl. Check out my Milk & Qookies diary, I had the roots hitting the water 5 days sooner than the first try with just a few changes. Saw your Reddit post and following your grow. Good luck on your first DWC!
MyWeedAccount
MyWeedAccount
@steadfast_grower, thanks for the advice!! I wish I saw your grow earlier b/c I came to the same conclusion that the rapid rooters retained water too easily, and have switched to spraying (and will in the future). I think I actually jumped the gun on this one and put them in the net pot (1 inch" hydroton layer underneath) immediately. Not the worst thing, but it's harder to check on it, so next grow I'll definitely be keeping it in the rapid rooter longer. The water is just at the net pot and the bubbles are hitting the bottom of the rapid rooter right now. I plan to slowly lower the water and keep checking under the netpot to see if the roots pop out (damn, my patience and eagerness is being tested haha). I'll definitely be following your grow. Your style is very similar and I appreciate the detailed hour notes! Cheers!
Mr_ZAF_Budz
Mr_ZAF_Budzweek 12
Looks amazing! Well done 👏🏻
DevilsBud_NL
DevilsBud_NLweek 11
Awesome frosty grow 👌👌
sdoyle
sdoyleweek 11
Awesome job!!!!!!!
y0shimitsu
y0shimitsuweek 9
Thanks for sharing this growmie 🙏🏻💚 enjoy! 🙌🏻
Lacrima
Lacrimaweek 9
Nice buds ! Happy Growing ! 😊💪
MarsHydroLED
MarsHydroLEDweek 6
Happy growing mate 😊
steadfast_grower
steadfast_growerweek 3
Thanks for reply. Not sure, but my comment was accidentially removed. I'll re-post here for reference. ---------------------------------- I ran into similar problems on week 4 as well. Drooping, which then turned to yellowing and then root issues. I tried different PH ranges from 5.8-6.0 and 6.1-6.3 along with upping nutrients and other tactics. I saved them but ended up moving them to soil and starting over in RDWC because I figured, after two weeks of stunted growth the effort wasn't going to pay off with autos because the first few weeks are so important before they start to flower at about day 30. My plants were much smaller than I had anticipated for being 30 days in. No regrets, I learned a lot. I anticipated problems would likely happen. I also sterilized, and rebuilt my system with some design changes which will solve some of the issues that led to the plant deficiencies. I'm already into week two on my second try and everything is going much better this round. Some things I learned on my first try which may help you diagnose: 1. Keep water level exactly level. If it fluctuates, the air roots can drown and simulate overwatering, the wilting. 2. Calibrate PH monitor/pen. BlueLab suggests calibrating the Guardian monthly, when I checked I was 4 points off. Calibrating weekly with water changes now. 3. More Air. I became convinced the root zone needed more oxygen, even with a waterfall. I'm now running 3 stones in each bucket now across two pumps so I have redundancy in case one pump fails. Additionally, I dial down the air pump attached to the stone under the net pot to avoid over-saturating the rapid rooter, but leave the other stones in bucket full throttle. 4. Push the nutrients to find the limit, maybe 5ml at a time - I go for some slight tip burn on first set of leaves, I was totally underfeeding on my first try. 5. Boost LED light dimmer more aggressively. Full strength at 30" by week 3. More light results in more nutrient uptake. 6. Add an enzyme product to work WITH Hydroguard. Enzymes work with beneficials and break down any dead plant matter and loose roots floating around. 7. PPE: Sanitizing hands regularly and wearing latex gloves when messing with any water and net/pot contact. 8. I've added shields over the net pots to ensure I don't have any additional light leaks. My clay is chunky and the bag consists of about 10% round marble-sized balls. I used black bristol board with a square hole and slit. 9. Add hydroguard/beneficials/enzymes every TWO days. Beneficial bacteria only lasts about 48 hours and peak population is at 24hours from adding to system. When running a live system, You will always have bad bacteria in there, the trick is to keep adding an army of good bacteria to keep the bad bacteria outnumbered. If the temps go past 72F, I add an extra dose just as a protective measure. Adding too much won't hurt the plant's health. 10. Stop messing with them... which I'm doing more on my second try now that I can know and can visualize what's happening underneath the net pot. I had just moved this tent to a new room with new venting, so I had a lot of environmental conditions to dial in the first round. Adhering to VPD using leaf temp as best I can. I agree with @ORGANOMAN 20/4 or 18/6 light cycle is definitely necessary. The dark hour is when the plant works on the root system, underneath and undergoes other changes. Additionally, it allows the water solution to cool down. My night cycle, takes the solution back to 66f each morning. Dropping the ambient air temperature even a few degrees during night cycle is so important in regards to leaf temp and the changes they undergo internally as well. Hoping you solve the issue! I want you to succeed! Good luck!
Oozle
Oozleweek 1
Good luck on your 1st DWC run!