Brown leafes are extending

Check your calmag growmie if it contains Calcium nitrate. Cause this is not to be used in flowering phase because of chemical reaction the plant cant take the cal and get overdosed on n, this is what we maybe can see here. Please check it out. You should use one Teaspoon and mix it in about 5 liters water . The plant will then recover and get hopefully new growth but what deas is is dead(necrosis)

Ph. Sort it first. You have many goid advices, but you didnt do nothing from last question. You are not far from big disappointment , maybe there's no way back, take it as a lesson. If you brew long and didnt check ph, that can go very acidic, think thats the reason ...

Hey, probably too much light. Give them rest, atleast 6 hours rest. If you have enough LED-Power, go for more preferably. You need to give them a certain DLI, 24h light is just stressful. Doesnt mean a plant likes 24hours light, just because she can take it... The plant is only half ruderalis, and even ruderalis itself prefers short nighttimes. Its just a waste of eletricity. Also your humidity is very high, check if the dead spots are dry. They should be, if they are rather mushy it can be mold or a desease. The damage also appears only on one side which normally tells you its a rootproblem, so nutrients and water are distributed uneven to the plant. Could be due to drainage, overfeeding, again deseases in the rootarea or just very uneven watering and feedings. So overall: Try to accquire a PH of under 60% atleast, give them atleast 6h darkness and regulate the feedings, water the whole earth, not only one side and add adecent amount everytime so the PH stays even. If your ph is 7 permanent that fine. Better than changing it every feeding from 6 which would actually be better to 7, swings are thw worst, plants cant adapt to a slightly higher or lower ph, but stick with it.

You flowers were fine early on in the week. You did something recently. And through your ph. Pk issues don't just happen like that. From healthy plants etc The banana skin ph thing. How did you make it? Did at any point the water get warm? There's something not right.. Also. You're running 24hrs, That's wrong and a myth..autos DO not like 24hrs. Rather 17-18. They need rest like any person Do what u were before. Add a simple PK booster. Making your own, well, you really shouldn't be asking questions about issues but know how to make your own p mix. Not being offensive, but your focus needs to be getting the 101s of growing. Less is more. DLI..daily amount of hours a light a plant gets in a 24hr period (learn the concept it will do you wonders) The difference in changing nutrients to meet requirements. Soil is widely controlled by bacteria..you introduce a warm water feed that's say been sitting a few days without adding H202 to kill any bad bacteria you're asking for issues. Soil takes a whole to react yes, but to go from green to that so fast. It's either a ph or bad bacteria.

These plants are overfed. Your plants looked relatively finen 2 weeks ago. Whatever you do, dial back, don't add more. without better info on the ratios and concentrations of what you fed, it'll be near impossible to diagnose from the current state of the plants. This is more likely an outcome of something(s) being too high than lacking something. I don't see P or K deficiencies, so it's hard to blame that. The symptoms for p and k are fairly distinct, too. Week 5 - a bit dark Week 6 - Can see this progressing - darker than week 5 Week 7 - lots of leaf damage that will get worse if you continue to overfeed. While the exact needs of the plant can be slightly different in vege vs late bloom when vege growth finally stops, the best practice is to maintain a consistent 'critical' level of each nute around the roots. It's not about boosting 1 or 2 like a mad scientist at the "right time." you want 40-60 ppm of P around the roots at all times. studies show boosting beyond that don't add to yield nor impact potency. Same with K.. above a certain level it's just an e-peen and a potential problem if too high. these numbers are for soilless/hydro. Soil is more complicated due to intermediary steps necessary to break down the ingredients of 'soil/organic' fertilizer into something that can actually enter the plant. About 60-70% of P and K enter through what is called "active transport". the plent sends out molecules that can only attach to specific molecules and transports it back into the plant. the plant does not have a CNS, but it reacts in a compartmentalized way. It graps the p and k it needs as it needs it. You simply have to make sure it exists in a proper concentration.. not overpowering each other or other nutrient molecules. N on the other hand mostly enters the roots through basic diffusion ("mass flow"). They don't all take the same path or proportions in each potential path to enter. If you keep wanting to feed this way, you will need to go through some trial and error as far as proportions of components in your tea. If you changed anything the last 3-4 weeks, i'd look over those changes and do something different next time, or you'll run into the same problem. Fertilization is about weeks and months compounding, not just what you did last night. Sometimes what you do takes weeks to cause problems. Good thing is that the longer it takes to present itself, the closer you are to doing it correctly.