How do you train your autos for them grow BIG?

BigBaudByDefaultstarted grow question 2d ago

As the headline goes, please all Come with advice!

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Week 2

Techniques. Other

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MindFlowers68answered grow question 2d ago

IDK dude. Some people grow some really impressive huge auto flowers. I haven't been able to do that yet. I think luck/good breeder is much more of a factor in it than growing photoperiods. But autos are not my main focus. Best so far is 160/g. That was a 8 week flowering auto though. at that point I would rather just grow a photoperiod. I've had other autos get fat and finish and 4 weeks of flowering 8 weeks total seed to harvest. Your plant is not necessarily small for an auto. If I can get about 3 oz or more a plant on an auto I'm really happy. I don't like to do any training on auto flowers whatsoever. maybe why i haven't yielded much. the one i just yielded the most on did get scroged, but also had its own powerful light. It was supposed to not be an auto flower seed but i had to move it to my flower tent anyway which is why it got trained. the Acapulco gold auto if you wanna check it out. Root zone is important to gett perfectly happy with auto becasue you want them to veg as long as they can if you want big autos. and any root stress can trigger them to flower earlier than whats possible. One thing that will help you the most is get the room DIALED in. what i mean is early veg let them get that nice easy going not too hot slightly humid "jungle tent vibes." i hope you get what i mean. like 82 degrees 69% percent humidity. I have 2 degree leaf temperature offset for my vdp calculation so do not need to run 75 percent humidity to get desired number. 400-600 ppfd for light intensity at canopy for veg. i think putting the light far away helps to make them stretch too. Giving them red/ far red and minimizing blue light will make them stretch too. i have a vdp setting for my humidifier on my controller and it keeps it around 0.9 for my veg tent. then once they start flowering start tapering your vdp up to 1.30

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JVKdopegrowanswered grow question 2d ago

I was fortunate to grow an indoor RQS Northern Lights Autoflower to a height of over 6'. Coco Coir substrate with Gen Hydro nutrients in a 3-gal grow bag. I probably overfed her at some point late veg/early flower, and she took off. The last 5 weeks she drank a gallon of water (with Nutrients) daily, often with little or no runoff. The yield was just shy of 3oz dry, and overall I did not enjoy the grow. Way too many issues to deal with (Multiple super crop, foxtail bud growth, constant trim). Be careful what you wish for!

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Green_Clawsanswered grow question 2d ago

Lots of love care and knowledge perfect everything all the time will give massive plants .that's the idea anyway..GL

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Condocannibusanswered grow question 2d ago

I have topped bent over tied down branches. My best auto yet I did nothing just let it grow no topping no l.s.t. Christmas tree structure. Have a look a gummi bear diary with zero stress nothing to slow her down.

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JimmyWhiteanswered grow question 2d ago

In my experience growing autos in a container smaller than 2 gal is not good. I've topped almost every auto I've grown for years although it doesn't cause a significant slowdown, now I'm trying to avoid it and stick with LSD. There are only a few breeders that have really high quality auto genetics, I'd always prefer them if I grow autos.

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RasendeRollo92answered grow question 2d ago

Hi, Except some soft LST, and removing only fanleaves That Cover too many buds I would not do anything to Autos.

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00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 2d ago

Probably best not to do too much beyond spreading it out. I'm sure most of the time you'd be fine training or even a single topping doesn't cut off much growth to be concerned with, but that "1" time it causes the plant to flower early might be a severe enough problem that it is not worth it. Depends on how often it has adverse effects... those that keep healthier plants probably have a much lower risk of it happening etc etc... so mileage may vary. You've got 2-3 weeks of vege phase, then teh typical ~4 weeks vege growth after it initiates flower (both variable) just as you would with a photoperiods, give or take. Maybe, 42 days before vege growth stops (stem elongation + leaf growth), so whatever you can accomplish in that time frame is fine. DLI = yield, assuming competency elsewhere. Training mostly just distributes the mass a bit more evenly. Might get a smaller ratio of larfy buds, but it generalyl doesn't improve yield all that much... still going to max out at 50-70g/sq ft... and some plants won't even reach that type of yield. A level canopy is more easily managed and easier to efficiently deliver light. some small gains to yield may or may not be worth the risk. Definitely don't cut off all the leaves to the point you only have small immature leaves because leaf growth stopped before it could recover. That is a net-negative for sure. Leaves are incredibly important for more reasons than just light capture. You are basically hindering it's ability to take in CO2, too, which is one of your limiting factors.

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Organomananswered grow question 2d ago

Just grow normal plants ... photoperiod fems.....big yields will be EASY to obtain! First rule...do NOT defoliate autos. Topping is not ideal either.

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Nocone_Purpleanswered grow question 3d ago

Autos have a short window, so keep training gentle and early. 1) LST (low stress training): from around day 14-21, once there are 4-5 nodes, bend the main stem sideways and tie it down so the side branches grow evenly and compete with the top. 2) Topping is optional with autos, only if the plant is healthy and before day ~25, and it costs a few days of growth. 3) Avoid heavy defoliation and any training after the plant starts flowering. 4) Don't repot late, start in the final pot or transplant very early. 5) Give light at 18-20h and keep it strong but not too close. Plants that grow big on autos usually have a healthy root zone, steady feed and no stress, more than fancy training. If you only do one thing, do LST

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