Gorilla Fast

@Beetrootbong, ok, some issues due to the fact that I have already grow a fantastic Gorilla Fast. First how can an F1 can be confused with an auto flower. Every F1 (fast) is pitched to work the cycles precisely changing for instance up from seedling to end the veg cycle up to 28 days with a light cycle 18/6 to 12/12. Normally mostly of F1 still stretch as veg at most 2 weeks and then a flowering start and a great Buds both on density, terpenes and very fine Gorilla (GG4) stuff with decent yeld. The best on the F1 strains is about when the floración real starts itnis astonishingly fast (up to 45-50 days. This strain on indoor even here with more than 30ºC inside your house and reacted fantastical. The heat doesn't prejudice so much both yeld and quality. I think that the GG4 Fast of 00 Seeds is OK in some strains, but this strain is one of the very best on these bank.

@Beetrootbong, @elchupanibre87 Dear brothers I am replying you both after three years you both have posted your concerns about the Gorilla Fast of 00 Seeds and I notice that both you, lads didn't understand what is the main difference between regular photoperiod strains and both automatic parentals over the F1 (fast) strains. Obviously the final result that you both have are linked to errors related to not understanding how the F1 genetics thrive. First of all, the F1 strains normally have genetic work that may be acquired by having or a S1 parentals on a direct self pollinated cross or mostly crossing out a photoperiod strain along an automatic strain. When you tell that that your flowering process only happen on 8 weeks, that only happen due to the fact that you expand way to much your veg phase. On the F1 strains you still are the "lord" of your time schedule and if you only give four weeks before you change the light cycles from 18/6 to 12/12, the Gorilla Fast will start among a ten day period the start of your flowering stage. As the Gorilla Fast has some automatic parental in theory even if you don't change the light cycle from 18/6 to 12/12 (inducing flowering stage) the auto genes on the strain will develop flowering much more later than expected and desired. If you swap your light cycle in F1 strains you will manage the time that you want both for your vegetative phase and to starting your flowering development. Getting to much time on vegetative phase you surpass the convenient schedule for flowering and it is mostly important when you grow F1 strains to notice that you only remain on vegetative as long as you want for the vertical structure of your grow. First big mistake in understanding how F1 strains work, wait to start the flowering stage on the grow regular pace and remember that when you change the light cycles from 18/6 to 12/12 you actively promoting the starting of the flowering stage. Second mistake, the F1 strains due to the automatic parentals aren't good material to get sketches or clones and most likely clones on "fast" strains will show much of the feebleness that for instance you get if you have the mad idea to get clones or trimm an automatic strain. Both auto and fast strains aren't proper to get clones and intending of having clones on a genetic that has a strong auto parentals is almost giving a "green card" to have nasty cloning sketches that will end in poor buds -both on size and density-. The second mate @elcgpabibre87 commentary is even more crazy that I expected, due to one of the most practical errors that anyone can get and it was linked to a complete lack of understanding of the way that F1 strains should be managed. In fact F1 strains are photoperiod strains, but for instance having the boldness to let the F1 strain stay on an undetermined schedule of lights is giving a strong possibility that along a great exposure to a 18/6 cycle the F1 strain start to reveal it's automatic parentality and it is very clear to growers with some experience that if you let the auto genes start to thrive by manteining 18/6 cycle, the F1 strain will express it's "automatic" expression and you know what happens when in automatic strains at some point you decide that you going to change on flowering phase the light cycle shortening a cycle that should starts and ends in 18/6 to apply that shortage on the light cycle to 12/12 on the late flowering stage. Doing it so, the fattening of buds won't occur and most likely the buds that you will get will be nasty (on automatics when you decide to proceed to a shortage of light number of hours, during the late bloom the buds won't thrive properly and logically as you told us the yeld and smoke was dreadful, precisely due to the fact that you apllied the photoperiod light cycle changes obviously to late. I have understand at some point the aim of the F1 strains and the "golden rules" to get the best of the "fast" strains. Rule number 1 - never gave chances to a F1 strain to impose its schedule... always be the master on the light cycles and for instance never extend the vegetative phase more than it is needed. As example I have the rule of always change the light cycle from 18/6 to 12/12 and inducing flowering not further than day 30 since seed sprouting. After swapping the light cycle from 18/6 to 12/12 at least on the first five days the vegetative phase and the vertical growing still occurs bit meanwhile the flowering stage has already started. 2- Be bold and defoliate the excess of the huge primary leafs that normally the F1 strains present and with this balance on defoliating the huge leafs that limit the secondary branching formation and development of it, so even on early vegetative phase don't be afraid to remove the primary leafs that mostly act as blockers on overall grow. 3 - after changing the light cycle from 18/6 to 12/12 and inducing flowering don't worry to actively promote flowering inductor compounds due to the fact that they act on the multiply of branching and flowering points. 4 - be very precise understanding that if you prolong the 18/6 cycle the F1 strain will start to express its growth as an automatic strain and mostly be very aware that changing on delay the cycle from 18/6 to 12/12, probably att that point the auto genes and pheno is already on the run and remember what happens on the auto strains that by foolishness of on the late blooming, fattening and ripening phase , the grower reduce the time exposure from 18/6 to 12/12. The buds won't form the most positive way and most likely the yeld will be nasty. So the F1 (Fast) strains is all about balance and all about inducing flowering during first weeks of vegetative; to defoliate in optimal rate avoiding that the primary leafs that normally on the F1 strains are huge and tend to covered up the secondary branching and limiting the grow of branches and internodes that will be the points we're the best buds will form. 4 - Never, but never, use branches as clones in F1 strains due to their automatic genes parentality and that most likely after develop won't be able to develop as pure clones of regular photoperiod. So I think that the indications will be very useful to get a full potential on the F1 strains.