I saw that most people use the LST/mainlining tech...

You can hit me with a PM, I can help you through it while you grow!

try to support lower trunk while you bend so you don't agitate the roots... I forgot -- You want an "anchor" around lowest portion of trunk below your bend.. that will help hold it in place and not stress the roots. it should be exact opposite side of where you bent the plant. so, as you bend down, that anchor holds the lowest portion of stem in place. I like staples in fabric, because it's not too strong.. if the plant grows out and you forget, it'll rip the staple out before it damages the plant. Later in bloom you may need to remove these tie-downs, if they ar stil there. I'd hold off until week 2-3 of bloom before removing the upper tie-down holding top of plant down... otherwise, significant shift in shape will occur and your once even canopy will now be uneven. The lower anchor may be best ro remove before you see any extreme pulling on the side of put - mostly due to increased thickness of the trunk. you dont' want anything to grow into the plant or cause weird growth around the tie-down.

I'd wait for more than 3-4 nodes, but you could do it now if you wanted... just be a bit gentler. It has fewer roots to hold it down, etc... The key is bending it before the apical meristem (trunk) gets too hard to manipulate in that way. As long as it isn't woody, you are fine... likely have more than 2 weeks in that picture, i bet.. but each strain varies a bit. I have one that gets super hard stems very quickly. I have to becareful and do that one earlier. First, think about where it is bending before doing it or mounting any tie-downs or stakes in ground etc etc.. Look at the growth. The nodes alternate 90-degrees each new growth. You want to bend it down between that 90-degree split so that each side of plant can grow vertically easily. That's the first step -- think it through and plan accordingly. now, when you bend it, you can slightly bend between finger and thumb -- don't feel any crushing inside.. if you do ease up... small amount is no probelm it will heal. You can bend liek this in a few spots near the bottom to create a better arch to horizontal that doesn't damage the plant. Any limb below that bend will be trash and you should just cut it off now. so, it's been loosely worked and bent in a specific direction you choose based on growth of the plant. Now, you can use any nuber of ways to hold it in place. I use fabric pots, so i can staple some soft twine (thick so it doens't cut plant) in a loop where plent is bent woard. I use that adjustable loop (slips through staple, but enough to hold young plant) over the top of the plant to hold it down. I will also use a stake (paperclip - u-shape) to stake down the middle of the plant so it doesn't arch too much. You want it to be farily level for best results. Nodes that are equal in height get equal amount of resources and will grow evenly. If anything grows tall, bend it down to keep that growth spread out. don't do anything crazy to get it perfectly horizontal... it's a goal, not a requirement.. don't do anything damaging to accomplish it. it's an impossible goal to reach. Initially it seems like you slowed it down,but in reality it is growing all over, so it's harder to see. It is logrithmic growth, though so it will speed up very quickly. Bend any branches upward if it can be useful (some may try to escape to side, but you can force it up to light with shorter path). Even tie those to do so until they grow into that shape. If anything is buried and has to grow a long horizontal lenght to get to light, it's safe to prune those off too as they won't ever amount to anything useful. So, most things are growing out and away from teh trunk, so you can bend a few of the lower limbs straight up to fill the middle. If you don't get them into light, they will be weak trash. i say to prune, but be conservative the first few attempts... once you watch one bloom and what's mor elikely to grwo intoa strong vertical cola, the better you can decide early and avoid wasted resources, which improves rate of growth and yield in the end. you don't have to bend it in one spot... you may find a littlel roll between your finger and thumb further along helps it out too. you dn't have to 'supercrop' to get it level.

Low stress training, or LST, simply means bending and tying the plants to train them in a form that grows more efficiently. Typical highly stressful techniques such as topping, fimming and supercropping all fall under the category of circumcision to increase yield and are not part of LST. All three are discussed in detail with a special attachment guide. Our focus here is more on training cannabis plants than cutting off parts. LST can of course also be combined with the techniques for maximum yields, especially with topping and the ScrOG method. In this guide to cannabis growing, we will simply explain the LST for you, but also how to combine LST with other techniques for maximum yields. It is always best to start the LST on flexible plants that are still growing. The stem and shoots tend to become harder and develop a thicker bark as the flowering progresses. That makes the LST risky. However, hopeless situations sometimes require the most determined way out. LST is the preferred last resort. It is better to bend the thickest flowers away from the grow lamp than to risk being burned by the light in late bloom. But be careful, because LST after the first three weeks of flowering can often end in a break, because it ends in a bend. But don't panic if you actually break a branch. Bandage the wound with tape. Most growers who plan to use LST to increase yields start early. US growers prefer the 4-way LST method. This requires cutting off the top of young plants and then tying down the 2 new and the 2 lower side shoots until the whole ultimately forms a cannabis bush. This is a mixture of topping and LST, which can later be woven into a ScrOG. However, an extended growth phase is required to enable this mix of methods. The more European LST style is pure LST without snapping off. European growers prefer to allow the plants at least 2-3 weeks of undisturbed growth before putting their hand on the cannabis plants. No cutting off of the tips and no topping with scissors. Instead, the main stem is treated the same as the side shoots by tying them down to fill the remaining side space with branches. Some additional time in the growth phase could be necessary for this. However, the plants will recover faster than if they are pruned. This type of LST is preferred by growers who grow autoflowering cannabis and want to increase their yields without long recovery times. To successfully use LST on your marijuana, you need a few simple tools, a steady hand and patience. Let's start with the tools necessary for LST. You will need some soft garden wire or a pack of plant ties or a roll of hemp twine. Yes, you really don't need much for cannabis LST. Cable ties and cords are quite old school and can cut into the stems if they are tied too tight. We therefore recommend soft plant binders or soft garden wire, especially for beginners. If you are particularly clumsy, support your cannabis with bamboo and tie the tied-down parts to the post with soft wire. Before you start with the LST, you also have to prepare your pots. Drill a few holes in the top of the pots or containers. Next, bend the still flexible fresh shoots with the soft wire. Finally, run the wire through a hole in the pot to hold the tied-down shoot in place - your LST is ready. Do the same with the surrounding shoots. Continue with the LST until you are satisfied with the size of your grass bush. By attaching all of the tied branches to the pot, the grower can still pick up and move his cannabis plants without having to undo the LST. Autoflowering growers don't have that much time to mess around. Although early LST on larger super cars can do wonders in just a few weeks. Further care is necessary in the development of the plants. More specifically, the additional new growth also wants to be tied down and tied down. LST cannabis growers want to be carefully monitored. The grower must control vertical growth and promote lateral growth in order to promote a dense plant roof of the cannabis bushes.

la flexibilité naturelle des fibres du cannabis permet de plier leur tronc et branches avec une relative facilitée, même durant la floraison des plantes. commence la manipulation dés que les plantes possèdent entre 3 et 6 nœuds ou une paire de feuilles. Durant cette première étape de la croissance, le tronc encore flexible est pliable sans risque qu’il ne se casse, même si au fur et à mesure du développement de la plante il sera de plus en plus difficile de le plier. Nous pouvons continuer à guider la croissance des branches durant toute la culture, même durant la floraison, ce qui pour cette étape représente un grand avantage face à la taille, qui n’est pas du tout recommandé une fois que la formation des têtes commence, cela stressera en effet la plante, ce qui aura pour effet de retarder la récolte. i nous sommes prudents, la flexibilité naturelle des fibres du cannabis permet de plier leur tronc et branches avec une relative facilitée, même durant la floraison des plantes. En utilisant une corde fine, nous pouvons accrocher la pointe de la plante à la base du pot par exemple ou à un tuteur que nous aurons planté dans le substrat. Nous plierons le tronc avec précaution et nous le fixerons avec la corde, à partir de là, nous pouvons augmenter progressivement la tension de la corde, chaque jour un peu plus, jusqu’à obtenir la position souhaitée. Soyez attentif à la réaction de la plante, essayez de ne pas appliquer trop de pression sur la corde et rappelez-vous que la flexibilité des branches peut varier d’une plante à l’autre.

I'd be glad to help with any questions you may have. I'm on my first official grow myself but I've spent so many hours studying and learning my brain might explode. Feel free to msg me any questions you may have!!