Ppfd levels during veg

Hola amigo, no sabemos si te servirá, nosotros usamos para tener un nocion o una idea, la app photone, no te aporta un resultado exacto pero te ayuda, la distancia tambien es importante, si necesitas una tabla orientativa nos lo puedes decir, saludos y feliz cultivo 💚🍀🌱🍀💚

These are my findings from experience. Maybe they’ll help you. (These values assume you are not using CO2) Seedling VPD Window: 0.6-1.0 PPFD: 200-250 Veg VPD Window: 0.8-1.2 PPFD Window: 400-600 Flower VPD Window: 1.2-1.6 VPD PPFD Window: Weeks 1-3: 600-800 Weeks 4-6: 800-1000 Weeks 7: 600-800 Weeks 8: 500-600

At 8 weeks you can safely shoot for 35-40 DLI given ambient atmospheric co2. Only test higher if you are supplementing co2 and tightly controlling climate. Watts x m^2 is not PPFD. Check out the wiki for the correct equation. The idea expressed is good, but the math was wrong. You can absolutely have a really good guess given accurate specifications of the light and the area it is focused on (tent size) to guesstimate PPFD or DLI. The dimmer percentage is very proportional to umols PAR output of the light (total light production). Remember DLI is what matters... PPFD over varying hours of operation result in different amount of photons applied per day. The suggestions below are for 18h vege plant... 12 hour flower phase will simply need 150% of that power to maintain same DLI, if it's not an autoflower.... A DLI table is something to image search and download for easy reference... ppfd and hours referenced for DLI That's what you divide by area in m^2. umol/s PAR / m^2 = PPFD From there you can choose a percentage that should give you an accurate PPFD. PPFD is also not a single point measurement. It's the average over the entire area. The more measurements you take, the more accurate the estimate is. Aslo, why i prefer to just use the umol/s PAR information... way easier than taking 20-30 measurements across 1.5m^2. As far as adjusting, the plant will tell you, and after you gain familiarity, you can pre-emptively increase power to a schedule of your own devising. When the plant starts to stretch too much, it was ready for more power a bit sooner... and if ithe node spacing doesn't stretch in a healthy way and the plant stalls, it needed less. Local variables potentially make these numbers different for every garden.. temp, rh and ambient co2 impact how much light per day a plant can handle without damage. you will always have to observe and adjust even with the absolute best suggestions.. you may even have seasonal differences. 8 weeks of vege -- they do look a bit under-sized. Drying patterns in soil each week indicate poor watering habits, but plants are relatively healthy, so ?? Exact cause is tough to say with the info given.

Hey RootsmanNL, at week 8 of veg the plant can almost certainly take more than you're giving it, but the dimmer % alone doesn't say much. What matters is the PPFD at the tops. Veg wants roughly 600 to 900 PPFD. At 18 hours that's a DLI of about 39 to 58. If you know what your light pulls from the wall, it's easy to estimate: watts x about 2.5 x 0.9, divided by the tent floor in square meters. Say a 450 W light in a 4x4 (1.49 m2): full power is about 680, so at 60% you'd be near 410, still under veg. So I'm with Nocone_Purple on going up in steps and watching the top leaves, something like 10% every few days until you're in that band. If the tops start folding up or bleaching, check the temperature at the tops first, then back off one step. Slow growth this late in veg can also just be roots filling the pot, so check that too.

I always raise in 3 Steps : Week 1-3 Week 3-5 Week 5- end 👊🤞🏽🍀

Hey there! Growing can definitely feel like a waiting game sometimes, but adjusting your lighting based on how your plants look—rather than a rigid calendar—is always the best path forward. Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density (PPFD) measures the amount of light that actually hits your plant's canopy every second. Increasing it too quickly can overload your plant's internal systems, causing light stress or bleaching. Here is a helpful breakdown of typical PPFD targets during the vegetative cycle: 💡 Optimal PPFD Targets for Veg Growth Stage Target PPFD Range ((mu mol/m^2/s)) Plant Visual Cues to Monitor Seedlings 200 – 300 Looking for strong stems; avoid stretching. Early Veg 300 – 500 Flat, dark green leaves with steady new growth node-to-node. Late Veg 500 – 700 Thick stems, bushy structure, and vigorous fan leaf expansion. Max Threshold Up to ~800 Only if environmental conditions (airflow, CO2, and temps under 28°C) are perfect. 🔬 The Science: Reading Your Leaves Instead of focusing entirely on your dimmer percentage (since 60% output varies wildly from one manufacturer's light to another), let your plant's morphology tell you when it's ready for more power: • When to turn it up: If the top leaves remain completely flat, exhibit a healthy, deep green hue, and continue pushing out new nodes, your plant is efficiently processing its current light load through photosynthesis. You can safely increase the intensity by 5% to 10% every few days. • Signs of Light Stress: If you see the edges of the leaves curling upward (known as "taco-ing"), notice bleaching/yellowing tips on upper growth, or see completely stalled development, the light intensity is too high. If this happens, back the dimmer down one step immediately. 🌱 Troubleshooting Slow Growth If you are already sitting at 60% intensity and your plants look perfectly healthy but are just moving slowly, light might not actually be your limiting factor! In plant biology, Liebig's Law of the Minimum states that growth is dictated by the scarcest resource available, not the total amount of resources. Slow vegetative growth is very frequently caused by: • Root Zone Environment: Pot size limits or a substrate that is staying wet for too long. • Ambient Temperatures: Cool root zones or low room temperatures sluggishly slow down plant metabolism. • Nutrient Availability: Minor deficiencies or a subtle pH imbalance blocking uptake. If you can, try downloading a reliable PAR meter app (like Photone) on your smartphone to check your actual canopy numbers.

Raise light by the plant's response, not on a schedule. Rough PPFD targets for photoperiod veg: seedlings 200-300, early veg 300-500, late veg 500-700, and a strong plant with good airflow and temps under 28°C can take up to ~800. Increase in small steps of 5-10% every few days and watch the top leaves. If they stay flat and dark green with a steady growth rate, you can keep going. Taco-ing, bleached tips or slow new growth mean you're too high, go back one step. If you can, measure PPFD at canopy height with a PAR app or meter, since dimmer % differs a lot between lights. At 60% with healthy growth you're probably fine, and slow growth in veg is often more about nutrients, temps and pot size than light.