Fast Buds - 🤵👰🧀🍰

Different mediums will have different saturation points, my medium regularly goes to 70+ on a watering. Problems don't arise from taking up too much water. It's only a problem when your medium wants to hold onto it for too long. Water in nature, evaporates, uptakes, or drains. We only have uptake or evaporates as options, not sure what pots your even using but with coco its pretty hard to over water, almost impossible if your using airpots. Relative humidity (RH) is a measure of the amount of water air can hold at a certain temperature. Air temperature (dry-bulb) is important because warmer air can hold more moisture than cold air. As a rule of thumb, the maximum amount of water that the air can hold doubles for every 20°F increase in temperature. Of you keep the air in the tent a little drier and a little warmer, any moisture in the medium over a set point will evaporate slowly over time, as the edges of the pot dry, the edges wick moisture from deeper inthe medium, so on so forth with the autopot eventually you will hit a plateu depending on rh% you can hold and maintain in the air will restrict the medium from going over a point. To keep 40-45rh you need to keep correct pressure within tent also to optimize water uptake. Alot if factors go into it, I'm glazing over alot Look up :"air conditioning phycometrics" https://www.cedengineering.ca/userfiles/M05-005%20-%20Air%20Conditioning%20Psychrometrics.pdf My pea brain sees it like this: put 1 wet sponge in a sealed box next to a dry sponge, the moisture from the wet will wick into the dry one until eventually they are both the same. Apply this principal to the moisture content of air in the tent and the moisture content of the medium. Think of them as 2 sponges in a sealed room. Control your rh and temps, let AC phycometrics Do the rest. Nothing your doing is wrong, this is how we learn. Goodluck pal wish you the best with your grow.

calmag are 2 things. it is calcium and magnesium. the problems associated with each are unique and have unique symptoms. The problem of the 1 leaf pictured is different than the problem in the plant pictured. The leaf -- could be Caclum deficiency. Mgiht be calcium being locked out by high P, or too low of pH too. Symptoms are not discrete, so you need to eliminate possibilities. Also, i don't think it is based on distribution of the damage and the worse spots here and there, but check for something chewing on this plant... a pest. Check under leaves etc.. just to be safe. If soilless or hydro, simply compare ppms to these values that usually will not cause a toxicity nor result in a deficiency: Ca - 100+ / P 40-100 / K 180-200 / Mg 75ish. If you deviate too far from those values, it might help diagnose. If in soil, none of this helps unless you are certain you are providing 100% of what the plant needs at this point and any amendments in the soil are exhausted. The plant -- Lots of things cause interveinal chlorosis. Gonna need more information. Maybe, the start of a k-def but that would usually have damage along the serated tips, too. Is it possible the top colas are getting slightly too much light? if isolated to the top, this is possible. Burnt tips are caused by numerous things, so again, need a bit more info to diagnose properly beyond a guess.