jackson nemesis 250w 560 umol/s PAR... they are lying about efficacy. It is not 2.6 umol/J. It is only 2.24 umol/J of par so it's a low-end efficacy light. As long as it is very cheap this is okay. At 250w it won't generat too much heat for a small room with a tent in it. It won't last the advertised 50k hours of use before it dims to90% of original intensity. it will dim faster due to lower efficacy / higher heat / more watts per diode than the manufacturer tests the diodes and for which that 50k hours metric is based upon.
Looks like it is a quantum board or something similar? Also, less than ideal, but the comparison is also a QB so it's a wash in this regard.
given the diode count this doesn't make sense... maybe they are just bad at properly measuring their own light? Seems to have a decent diode count and should be higher efficacy.
P2000 - can't find information i trust about umol/s and efficacy.
the key to any samsung lm301-based led grow light is running them as close to how samsung tests them as possible. Otherwise, you get less longevity, more heat, and higher bills to produce the same amount of light per day.
Anything over .20watts/diode is running that diode hotter than samsung.com spec sheets - these are the spec sheets that matter as many, many led grow light manufacturers lie through their fucking teeth, but it's easy to spot check them for honesty.
The fact that viparspectra is not advertising number of diodes, i'd wager the jackson nemesis is using a better ratio. As long as price isn't too significantly different, i'd always go with the fixture that is running at a lower wattage per diode - this assumes equivalent heat sinks and diode distribution etc.
any lm301 run .2 watts per diode will die faster than advertised. .2-.25w/diode will be the 2.7-2.9umol/J tier. Binning of diode will be cause for some stratification of ~10% range. the mid teir will be around .3-.4 watts per diode -- with these you often won't get the best binning ("SK" diodes in 3000k,for example vs "SJ" - can see model number variations), but if you did, you'd still be up near 2.8-2.9 umol/J efficacy, but they'd still be run hotter and dim faster. Then i wouldn't buy any light higher than .4-.5watts per diode. these are lumps of shit. I won't specifically state where that line should be drawn but somehwere around there -- efficacy falls off faster and faster the further from .2watts per diode.
You pay for efficacy. It is directly realted to longevity and electricity costs. Don't get caught up in gimmicks like UV diodes... those are a waste of time to run all the time and 2x as useless and stupid to run uv in vege phase. If a light has them, no big deal, but don't buy a light for that reason. The far red diodes are good to have. If it focuses on "ePAR" that's worthwhile to value, but nothing to overpay for.
Better to teach a person to fish than just to hand them some fish.
The othr thing to know -- this is mostly about electrity and heat produced. If you give 35 DLI with either light, you'll have similar results assuming any environmental differences caused by the variations between the lights is mitigated properly. Don't worry about quality. If it produces 35-40 DLI for your area and ambient co2 conditions, yield and quality will be equivalent, all other factors remaining the same. you'll want stronger lights if you add co2.