Use risers... something to lift the shorter ones. old textbooks? an upside down bucket? etc... some 2x4s, if they remain dry and no mold on them, lol.
footprint and beam angle determine height of light, then use dimmer from there, if needed. Still more penetration if you use 100% and raise the light from there if it is too intense for a mature plant.
There is some concern when dimming significantly. you lose integrity of spectrum for lack of better words... that nice curve that mimics wavelengths related to photosynthesis... toss that out the window when dimmed very low. it'l still work obviously, but bang per buck is diminished in other ways too, like loss of efficacy in driver when dimmed enough.
imo at the stage your plants are at, better to have at ~100% and at a higher distance than optimal for footprint, if needed. the immersion from photons bouncing off walls will be hitting places that would otherwise not receive as much light. Talking few more watts and better buds below!
The reason you need more light in bloom is only due to 33% fewer hours of light. when photons are added up, they can handle the same amount of light per 24 hours over 12 as they can over 18 (DLI) which will mostly depend on amount of CO2 there is. but temp and RH%. are important too. Regardless of that, you hav a light and you have a space filled... you can't neglect a plant at this point. Height should be determined by what can properly hits all plants... raising it from there plausible, but lowering should be avoided because you will lose proper coverage due to beam angle.
awesome info in diary, btw. will be easy to diagnose problems with confidence. i'd calculate your elemental ppm of each nute from your labels... at least once. minor adjustments, you'll have an idea and that's good enough at that point.